Anne-Sophie Pic, who holds the distinction as the female chef with the most Michelin stars in the world, opened her Hong Kong restaurant in late 2023, just when hopes for a post-pandemic boon were turning into blues. The notion of another French fine dining establishment felt risky when rivals like Louise leaned into the bistro vibe to entice more value-conscious eaters, and with powerhouses like Caprice and Amber having dominated the scene for two decades.

Yet Cristal Room, perched on the 45th floor of Gloucester Tower (home to the Merchants and Cardinal Point), delivers food and services that match its pedigree. It also brings a touch of fun that its name, location and lineage don’t immediately communicate, perhaps to its detriment.

Dining and Cooking