On a recent Saturday night, Kevin and I had the opportunity to try the new restaurant Mimo with two other couples. Coincidentally, my co-writer, Russell Weil, also had made a reservation there that evening.
The location evoked a bit of nostalgia, as it was formerly the location of Kanomwan – “Telephone Thai” to those in the know. Kanomwan was a bare-bones Thai restaurant, popular with the downtown lunch crowd. Kevin and I went there early in our relationship for dinner.
The location is special to both the chef, Fernando Rios, and co-owner and wine guy, Mike Sammons. They pride themselves on being a part of the community, and they enjoy hiring residents of the Second Ward.
We took a short trip down memory lane as we entered while taking in the renovations. Kevin remembered to the right of the entry, where one large dining table sits now, was the counter for a cash register and takeout orders. It also was where customers picked up sticks of chewing gum after their meals.
New art on the walls, as well as wooden chairs and tables, transformed the space into a trattoria that might be found in Italy. A concrete floor and dark ceiling brought the space together. The focus is on the food and wine (and beer), with a few wine/champagne cocktails: spritz, Negroni, Bellini and vermouth and soda.
We were warmly greeted by Mike, who showed us to the only empty table in the room, agreeing it was a good idea for us to wait at the bar for the rest of our party.
Mimo has approximately 20 tables inside, with doors leading to what will be an expansive patio, almost the same size as the interior, once it is finished (and the weather cools). A bar, with counter seating for eight, feels small, familiar and cozy.
Mimo has its wine and beer license, with a wine focus. At the bar, Kevin and I enjoyed a spritz, along with a vermouth and soda.
The spritz, which uses Cappelletti Amaro, a wine-based alternative to Aperol, had the same color profile as an Aperol Spritz, but was a little more substantial. It was fresh and light, perfect for the hot summer evening. The vermouth and soda was a new twist on an old ingredient, and it also was refreshing.
As our friends arrived, we sat down and started talking. It took us a while to decide what to order and, with Mike’s recommendations, I ordered appetizers for the table. We had the ricotta “montato,” the roasted sweet potato, the insalata, marinated olives and the evening’s seasonal special of corn and zucchini fritters.
Kevin also ordered the Negroni Spagliato. “Spagliato” means “mistake” in Italian. According to Mike, “The story goes that a bartender in Milano reached for a bottle of gin and made the ‘mistake’ of grabbing a bottle of prosecco instead, thereby pouring vermouth, amaro and sparkling wine instead of gin.”
Mimo uses Carpano Antica vermouth, the Cappelletti Amaro and prosecco in this drink. We also ordered a bottle of red wine for the table: a 2021 Francesco Cirelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which was good and improved throughout the evening as it opened up.
We dug into the appetizers, and all agreed they were delicious. The whipped ricotta was light and airy with an orange blossom honey and toasted ciabatta as perfect accompaniments, texturally and taste-wise.
The sweet potato, with mascarpone, sweet butter, feta, clover honey and toasted citrus pumpkin seeds was different enough from the ricotta and also was a taste sensation.
Olives, with their salty, briny flavor are always a good addition in my book, and these didn’t disappoint. The corn and zucchini fritters came out hot and delicious, and there wasn’t one left. The salad, covered in shaved pecorino, was a taste sensation – once we cut into the radicchio to get to the almonds and parsley. The whole dish came together with lemon-miso vinaigrette.
We each ordered our dinners, sharing bites, comments and opinions. This is where things were a little less exciting and precise – flavor-wise. My duck breast with porcini risotto was bland (I couldn’t taste the apricot mentioned on the menu), and the risotto did not have the right texture.
Two of our guests ordered the pappardelle braised lamb, with wild mushrooms, heirloom tomatoes, herbs and (optional) grana podano cheese. This dish had more flavor, accenting the wide ribbons of the pasta laced with the other ingredients, but was a bit salty.
The third item I tasted was the fish: Roasted red snapper “acqua pazza” (poached white fish and tomatoes in Italian cuisine). The fish was firm and moist, and the sauce was good. This was the best of the dishes I tasted.
To end our meal, we decided on the biscotti amaretti, which came with crema di vin santo (cream flavored with the Italian dessert wine vin santo). The cookies were crispy and delicious with a true almond flavor and a hint of lemon, and the crema truly was not needed. The cookies were excellent on their own. It was a light end to a good dinner.
Overall, our party of six enjoyed the leisurely, mostly delicious dinner. I look forward to going back when the patio is open, and we can sip crisp wine, eat more of the delicious appetizers and try the lunch items.
One drawback, however, was the restaurant’s temperature: It was very warm inside, even though I saw the thermostat set low, working to cool the place off. As diners left, and the space cleared out, it cooled down, but not much. This may be something they need to investigate.
Soon, Mimo will offer a Sunday feast: An experience that will be an answer to Sunday brunch and dinner in one. Twice a month on Sunday, Chef Rios will offer a three- or four-course menu, with wine pairings chosen by Mike. Between 1-6 p.m., the feast will be an affordable and personal meal with the chef and Mike talking about the food and wine, while they serve.
Mimo is located at 736½ Telephone Rd., in back of Tlaquepaque Market. Lunch is served Tuesday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner, Wednesday to Saturday, 5-10 p.m. Reservations can be made at resy.com. Visit mimohtx.com to peruse menus.
Dining and Cooking