Last August, after a long day moving into my downtown apartment, my parents and I stumbled upon Osteria Athena, an unassuming door tucked between Bruxie and Bourbon Street Bar, located at 323 E. Broad St. A simple chalkboard out front read: Good. Simple. Italian Food.
Upon entering, a short climb upstairs revealed a softly lit dining room, framed by rustic plaster-and-brick walls and dotted with checkered tablecloths, creating a warm, intimate atmosphere steeped in the building’s historic charm. As we dined there, it felt like we had uncovered a true Athens local secret. What began as a stressful, hangry day ended with full stomachs and smiles for my family and me. Over a year later, the experience remains just as vivid.
Drew Meyer, owner and manager of Osteria Athena has been part of the Athens community since 1999. Before Osteria Athena, he worked as the bar manager at Last Resort Grill and later took on the challenge of revitalizing Dolce Vita Trattoria Italiana. By redesigning the menu and concept, he transformed it into what is now Osteria Athena, which officially opened in 2019. Since then, the restaurant has been coined a “hidden gem” by its patrons.
“I love the fact that you can see the steam coming off the plates,” Meyer said. “I love the fact when people are eating and we go over and say, ‘How is everything?’ and they’re just smiling.”
For entrees, Meyer recommends the Tagliatelle al Funghi, a mushroom pasta made with semolina pasta ribbons sauteed in a porcini cream drizzled with truffle oil to finish.
“I say this not to sound vain, but it really is a chef’s kiss,” Meyer said “It’s such a simple, light dish, it’s not heavy, and it goes great with both red and white wines or cold beer.”
Although Osteria Athena periodically runs specials, Meyer is proud of their one-page menu. Other restaurants offer long menus, often three to four pages, but Meyer said that allows for too much variation in the quality of each dish.
“Everybody we train in the kitchen, they have to know the dish well,” Meyer said. “You want consistent flavors, consistent portions. That’s important.”
Beyond the cozy atmosphere and tried and true dishes, Meyer believes it’s the service that completes a dining experience at Osteria Athena.
“I tell my staff to treat each customer like they’re your grandparents,” Meyer said. “Because, at the end of the day, we’re all family.”
That familial feeling extends behind the scenes as well. With a small staff of just 10 to 14 people, Meyer has built close relationships with his team, particularly with kitchen manager Kyle Dickey.
“I actually met him down in Eatonton, Georgia eight years ago,” Meyer said. “I saw his talent, and when I took over this restaurant, I said to him, ‘If you ever come to Athens, give me a call.’ He called me, and he’s been with me ever since.”
Dickey describes their partnership as a natural fit. He said they have gotten along well ever since beginning to work together.
“He’s really driven to make sure we do our job to get things done,” Dickey said. He doesn’t try to be strict, he’s more laid back, and leisurely that’s his style.”
When it comes to the food, Dickey’s favorite dish is the Pollo al Marsala, a chicken dish seared and sautéed with wild mushrooms with mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables on the side.
While being a small, locally-owned restaurant gives Osteria Athena some advantages, it also makes competing with larger corporate establishments a challenge, especially with rising costs of rent and ingredients.
Drew Meyer poses for a photo at Osteria Athena located at 323 E. Broad St., in Athens, Georgia. Meyer is the owner of Osteria Athena, which officially opened in 2019. (Photo Courtesy/ Osteria Athena)
Courtesy Osteria Athena
“I came here not with a million bucks,” Meyer said. “I came here with the proper investment, with the experience, and the proper guidance of some amazing people… If that all works together, then you’re gonna start making money.”
Meyer’s experience reflects the challenges facing small restaurants nationwide. Data from the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics shows that only half of restaurants survive past their fifth year, and just 34.6% survive beyond ten years, with small businesses overall faring even worse. Athens is no exception, since 2020 numerous restaurants, including local favorites like Café on Lumpkin and home.made, have closed their doors.
“I try not to compete with my competitors,” Meyer said. “I try not to have the same dishes or the same wines, I try to be priced reasonably.”
Osteria Athena isn’t going anywhere in the immediate future. Students are taking notice of the restaurants’ upscale yet reasonably priced Italian dishes.
UGA seniors Hailey Castano and Aaron Dameron celebrated Valentine’s Day at Osteria Athena last year. They enjoyed the atmosphere, describing it as “the vibe of a small, family-run Italian restaurant’ noting the checkered tablecloths and variety of decorations. While they enjoyed the classic menu, they hope to see Osteria bring new ideas to the table to help them stand out while preserving its traditional feel.
With its simple Italian food, a staff that feels like family and its memorable dining experience, Osteria Athena shouldn’t be the place you just stumble upon. Step inside, and you’ll understand what it means to discover a true hidden gem.
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Dining and Cooking