‘You Don’t Quit on Love, Do You?’ — Why Chef Ritu Dalmia’s Restaurants Still Feel Like a Warm Hug
If restaurants possessed personalities, DIVA in Delhi would be that effortlessly charismatic friend who knows everyone, dresses flawlessly, and somehow makes you feel like you fit into their world. As soon as you pull open its elegant glass doors, DIVA doesn’t merely greet you — it enchants you. The lighting is inviting, the tables exude sophistication quietly, and the soft murmur of laughter from satisfied customers quickly indicates that this isn’t merely another Italian restaurant overexerting itself. The aroma of basil and melted cheese lingers in the atmosphere like an enchantment of affection. You sit down, and suddenly, you want to try everything on the menu. And honestly? I almost did.
My evening began with a spread that was as visually seductive as it was flavourful. The Burrata was the stuff of creamy dreams — soft, indulgent, and unapologetically rich. The Truffle Risotto hummed with confidence, each grain coated in just enough butter to make you forget every diet you’ve ever started. The Lamb Chops, of course, lived up to their legend — smoky, succulent, and comforting in a way only nostalgia can be. But not everything was perfect. The prawns, unfortunately, were undercooked and carried an odd whiff that even the kitchen’s apology couldn’t mask. Still, the staff handled it with such genuine grace and attentiveness that it barely dented the evening. That’s the thing about DIVA — even when the food missteps, the feeling never falters.
‘No Fusion. No Shortcuts. Just Real Flavour.’ — The Chef Who Brought True Italian to India
Curious about what makes DIVA such a timeless culinary landmark in a city where restaurants pop up faster than bubble tea shops, I sat down with the woman behind it all — Chef Ritu Dalmia. When I asked her what keeps DIVA thriving decades after its debut, she smiled knowingly. “We do three things really, really well and refuse to be know-it-alls,” she said. “First, quality — I never compromise on ingredients. If the tomato basil pasta doesn’t sing, nothing else does. Second, simplicity with soul — I’m not into pretentious gimmicks. The hardest thing is doing simple food really, really well. Third, consistency and warmth — you walk in, you’re recognised, you eat something you love, and you know you’ll love it again next time.”
Her approach sounds simple, but it’s pure mastery in motion. Dalmia doesn’t chase trends; she builds timelessness. And though Delhi has changed — from lazy Italian brunches in 2000 to oat-milk flat whites in 2025 — DIVA remains unfazed, grounded in authenticity.
Her creative energy isn’t confined to Delhi either. She’s expanded her culinary empire to Dubai, a move that could intimidate even the boldest chefs. “My philosophy has always been about staying true to authentic flavours and traditional methods,” she told me. “With Atrangi in Dubai, the challenge was to present those dishes with a touch of modern plating without losing their soul.” She grinned. “You can’t fake soul, and you definitely can’t plate it.”
‘Authenticity Is My Only Spice’ — The Woman Who Changed the Way Delhi Eats Italian
When I asked whether her menus shift across cities, she leaned forward thoughtfully. “Food travels,” she said. “But yes, I tweak here and there. I don’t bastardise the cuisine — authenticity matters. But I’m clever; I choose dishes and ingredients that feel both true and a little familiar, so people don’t freak out. The core stays the same — but the local nudges, the seasonality, that’s where the fun lies.”
And which dish currently excites her most? She laughed. “It has to be the lamb chops. They’ve been on DIVA’s menu since day one, and no matter what new things we add, I keep going back to them. They’re like that old love you can never quite get over.”
‘Good Food Doesn’t Need Gimmicks — It Needs Heart’ — Lessons from Chef Ritu Dalmia
Every chef has a turning point, and for Dalmia, it came not from triumph but from what she calls her “glorious flop.” “Mezza Luna in Hauz Khas, 1993,” she recalled with a nostalgic chuckle. “My bold leap into the culinary world with zero formal training and a head full of Italian dreams. The food was good, but Delhi wasn’t ready. Nor was I. It flopped, but it lit the spark. I moved to London, opened Vama, but my heart stayed in Delhi. When I came back and opened DIVA in 2000 — well, here we are.”
That failure, she says, taught her more than any success could. “There were days I wanted to quit. I thought, ‘Why am I doing this?’ But then I’d smell fresh basil, taste a perfect risotto, or see someone’s face light up over a dish I’d created, and I’d think, ‘This is why.’ Food isn’t just a job; it’s a love affair. And you don’t quit on love, do you?”
Her relationship with food is deeply emotional, almost poetic. “Each plate I create carries a piece of me — my travels, my moods, my love for simple but bold flavours. I don’t overcomplicate things. I just want the food to feel real, comforting, and a little unexpected… much like me.”
‘Food Isn’t Just About Taste, It’s About Memory and Culture’ — Why Chef Ritu Dalmia Cooks from the Heart
When asked if chefs today carry a responsibility beyond taste, she didn’t hesitate. “Absolutely! Old cooking methods and dishes are vanishing fast, and some of us are trying to bring them back. If we don’t, we lose a part of ourselves — the flavours and stories that shaped us over generations. Food isn’t just about taste; it’s about memory and culture.”
Her commitment to inclusivity also shines beyond the plate. “I don’t just talk about inclusivity — I live it,” she said proudly. “From training LGBTQIA+ students to mentoring women who want to rule the culinary world, I make sure my team reflects the diversity I believe in.”
She laughs when asked what legacy she hopes to leave behind. “I want to be remembered as the chef who brought real Italian food to India — no shortcuts, no fusion, just honest, regional flavours. I’ve always believed in keeping it simple, using quality ingredients, and never compromising on authenticity. If people remember me for making them fall in love with food, whether it’s a perfect burrata or a comforting bowl of pasta, I’ll consider that a legacy well served.”
‘I Don’t Bastardise Cuisine — Authenticity Matters’ — The Chef Who Redefined Italian Dining in Delhi
Of course, no conversation with Chef Dalmia is complete without a few rapid-fire confessions:
Her comfort food? “Dal Chawal.”
One ingredient she can’t live without? “Tomato.”
A dish she’s cooked a thousand times but never tires of? “Spaghetti in Tomato and Basil.”
Delhi street food or Dubai fine dining? “Delhi street food, always.”
Secret spice? “If I told you, it wouldn’t be a secret, would it?”
As I left DIVA that night, I caught one last whiff of truffle oil and laughter. The prawns may have faltered, but everything else — the pasta, the ambience, the heart — hit the high notes. DIVA isn’t just a restaurant. It’s a mood, a memory, and maybe even a little bit of magic. Because when food has soul, even a single bite can feel like home.
Dining and Cooking