Maremma is devoted to Tuscany — as likely is anyone who has ever visited Tuscany, because it is impossible not to fall in love with its long, sunny beaches, pine forests, cured meats and chiantis. That’s exactly what happened to Alice Staple and Dickie Bielenberg, Maremma’s founders, which is how they came to be bringing the latter back home to Brixton. Meats, cheese, olive oil and wines are imported from a carefully curated selection of small Tuscan suppliers — but it is their union with fresh tagliatelle, mezzelune and pappardelle that regulars come for, in a warm, amiable neighbourhood restaurant that does a pretty good job at recreating the feel of the region too. Prices are on the steeper side: in the early £20s, if you’re making the pasta your main course, though that speaks to the quality of the ingredients. There is an early lunch and supper deal on Wednesday and Thursdays, though, with two courses and a glass of wine for £20 all in.

Dining and Cooking