Stowe’s Cork Restaurant Pleases With Wine and Italian-Inspired Comfort Food

Monkfish Agghiotta and Vine Conestabile della Staffa Rusticó Sangiovese Credit: Jeb Wallace-Brodeur

Living in a resort town has its perks. Sure, we grumble as high season kicks in, when navigating Stowe’s Main Street seems all but impossible and grocery shopping becomes a contact sport. But it sure is nice to reside in a small town with more than its fair share of great dining venues — and Cork Restaurant certainly belongs on that list.

Tucked just off the picturesque heart of the village in sight of Stowe’s iconic church steeple, Cork is a hometown favorite that we graciously share with tourists. Founder Danielle Nichols and her sister, general manager and wine director Katie Nichols, have created a comfortable space for locals while also welcoming visitors.

On a recent Sunday night, my husband and I bellied up to the bar and ordered glasses of the Domaine Félix & Fils ($11 glass/$36 bottle), an elegant white Burgundy with citrus and mineral notes and just a hint of oak. Bartender Ian Budd, in a newsboy cap and butcher-style bib apron, makes for a hipster host and a fine companion.

Danielle and Katie Nichols Credit: Jeb Wallace-Brodeur

The thoughtfully selected natural wines from across the world are one of the main attractions at Cork, which also operates as a bottle shop during the day, exclusively selling organic and biodynamic wines. But the food by executive chef Jesse Walter is a draw in its own right — and might come as a surprise to those more familiar with the original Cork wine bar in Waterbury, which served only small plates from 2011 until its closure in 2017.

Walter, a Vermont native who honed his chops at Bar Enza in Cambridge, Mass., has created a concise menu of what Danielle described as “Italian-inspired comfort cuisine that’s both local and seasonal.” While the offerings may not be vast, they are plenty varied and I’ve never failed to find what I order to be delicious, from a decadent burger to Walter’s refined fresh pasta.

Exterior of Cork Restaurant Credit: Jeb Wallace-Brodeur

On this blustery evening, we started our meal with the kale Caesar ($16), a simple yet stunning lemon-dressed salad fancied up with focaccia bread crumbs and shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano. For something more rib-sticking, try the crispy potatoes ($8) served with pickled hot pepper aioli, an elevated take on baked potato skins with sour cream.

For my main, I chose the earthy mushroom risotto ($26) made with nutty farro in place of arborio rice. Cooked in a soulful miso broth, loaded with musky maitake mushrooms and topped with generous scoops of fresh ricotta, it evokes old-world Italy in a thoroughly modern way.

My husband opted for monkfish Agghiotta ($29) a tender filet of monkfish swimming in a punchy sauce of tomato, green olives, anchovy, golden raisins and pine nuts. It basically demanded to be slurped down.

Bartender Ian Budd pouring an old-fashioned cocktail Credit: Jeb Wallace-Brodeur

The winning wine recommendation of the evening came from floor and staff manager Deirdre Sloan. We craved red on the cold night but were wary of overpowering our seafood and vegetarian dishes. Her suggestion was the Vini Conestabile della Staffa Rusticó, an Umbrian Sangiovese. Its fresh, acidic profile complemented our food without overshadowing it.

Bottles such as these can now also be found at the recently opened Cork Market on Moscow Road in Stowe, along with local beer, pantry items and specialty foods.

For days when there are too many tourists in town, the new market offers high-quality ingredients so you can approximate Cork’s fare in the comfort of your own home — though I might just wait for a seat at the bar.

The original print version of this article was headlined “Fare Share | Stowe’s Cork Restaurant pleases with wine and Italian-inspired comfort food”