Justin Postlethwaite joins an epic gourmet celebration of cassoulet in Toulouse and becomes a world record holder.
In May, I was lucky enough to be invited to an event that formed part of the annual Toulouse à Table food festival, which brings local chefs, producers and hungry gourmets together for a range of gastronomic extravaganzas. From food trucks to themed parties, it gives Toulousains the chance to enjoy dishes both local and exotic (there was a Brazilian soirée) at lovely en plein air venues amid an ambience of famed Occitan conviviality.
The Toulouse à Table association was founded in 2013 with the primary mission of creating and strengthening social ties around culinary sharing. It is run entirely by passionate volunteers and is committed to responsible eating, favouring short distribution channels, seasonal produce and quality labels.
An event to remember
This particular event was hosted in the beautiful Jardin du Grand Rond, a designated Jardin remarquable in the heart of Toulouse complete with a gently trickling fountain and lovely lighting in the trees and flowerbeds perfect as the sun went down on a balmy late spring evening. As I arrived, eager Toulousains queued in (unexpectedly!) orderly fashion around the entire garden perimeter as they waited to be seated for the first of three services that would, it was hoped, achieve a new world record for the number of cassoulet servings dished up in one go.
Once inside, I was handed a glass of chilled Floc de Gascogne to wet my whistle before taking my place in the queue for a tray. This I duly loaded with a veritable southwestern feast: a starter of pâté paysan made by artisan charcutier Jean-Baptiste Marty, the main course and star of the show, cassoulet de la Confrérie du Cassoulet de Toulouse, made by Maison Garcia (Champion du Monde du Cassoulet, no less); a cheese course of Cabécou du Lot goat’s cheese with cherry tomatoes; and ice cream to finish – a glace artisanale from La Prairie des Glaces in Buzet-sur-Tarn. All of this was accompanied by a glass of wine from the bar, selected by the Vins de l’Interprofession des Vins du Sud-Ouest.
The central bandstand was rocked by a local blues band and the mood was very jolly indeed, with lots of families enjoying the occasion. Allowing for the fact that this was such a massive catered event, the food was delicious – especially the cassoulet (with Toulouse sausage a key component, naturally). I do not exaggerate or flatter Maison Garcia when I say it was probably the best I’ve ever eaten the meat tender and tasty, the sauce not cloying, as sometimes it can be.
Once the evening’s final service was over and two judicial commissioners had meticulously completed their final tally of meals eaten – a mighty 3,139 – Toulouse was proudly entered into the Guinness Book of Records for the number of individual cassoles (clay serving bowls) served in one go. Diners could even take their engraved cassoles home with them as a memento.
So how do I feel about being some kind of cassoulet champion? I am obviously not Toulousain but my passion for cassoulet is legitimate and longstanding, and so despite being an Englishman, I am now a proud record holder for eating one of France’s most iconic dishes. But I can hardly say it was a struggle!
I did wonder whether anyone from Castelnaudary or Carcassonne – the Aude locations that traditionally vie with Toulouse in claiming to be the original home of cassoulet was present. I hope so, because celebrations of produce and the coming together of strangers over a shared dining experience are enough to put all differences aside. Vive le cassoulet!
Next year’s gastronomic events run from May through to autumn.
Visit toulouseatable.org
Toulouse tourist office: www.toulouse-tourisme.com/en
Visit the Maison Garcia charcuterie stand at Toulouse’s Victor Hugo Market to stock up on cassoulet and Saucisse de Toulouse: www.maison-garcia.fr
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Dining and Cooking