The runaway success of Argentine malbec has been nothing short of phenomenal. In just a few decades the grape has flourished in its new home in the foothills of the Andes, producing a hugely popular, velvety red full of dark fruit that can taste of anything from blackcurrant to liquorice and violet. Little wonder it’s one of the UK’s most popular wine styles. Sainsbury’s floral and juicy 2022 Terrazas de los Andes Malbec from Mendoza (£16.50) and Waitrose’s plummy, spicy 2024 Finca Lalande Organic Malbec from the Uco Valley (£12) are just two interesting examples.
Part of malbec’s success, one suspects, is that it pairs so well with food — you generally find a few examples on pub and restaurant wine lists — and goes beautifully with Sunday roasts and other meat-heavy dishes, particularly steak or to accompany those upcoming Bonfire Night barbecues.
All this success must have been a little galling for the producers of Cahors in southwest France, where, around the banks of the River Lot, malbec has been cultivated for centuries. In this region, where the grape is known as côt, it produces an inky wine that was prized by the Romans and in the Middle Ages was regarded in a similar light to the wines of Bordeaux.
The fact that Cahors has been eclipsed by Argentina is partly down to style. Malbec from this part of France was more rustic and tannic, a dry red that took years of bottle ageing before it was ready to drink. Not any more. I have been struck by the shift and just how approachable these wines now are, with more emphasis on freshness, silky fruit flavours and lower levels of alcohol. We’re seeing more of them in our supermarkets too, and long may this continue. These wines come into their own at this time of year, so here are my picks from both old world and new.
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2022 The Best Cahors Malbec
France (12.5%)
Morrisons, £9.50
This is a smooth, supple cahors with a splash of merlot that gives it a plush texture with enjoyable red fruit.
2022 Château Famaey L’Impression
France (13%)
Yapp Brothers, £14.95
Here’s a vibrant, modern, unoaked cahors with lovely floral notes and dark berry flavour.
2020 Grand Coutale Cahors
France (14%)
The Wine Society, £20
This rich, classic cahors melds dark fruit and liquorice with savoury, grippy tannins and a good structure.
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2024 Blueprint Mendoza Malbec
Argentina (13%)
Waitrose, £8
A well-priced, spicy example with notes of black cherry and plum, this has a soft, velvety mouthfeel.
2024 Specially Selected Patagonian Malbec
Argentina (13.5%)
Aldi, £8.99
This is a light, elegant style of malbec delivering plum and red fruit, with a gently rounded texture.
2024 Classics No 29 Mendoza Malbec
Argentina (13%)
Marks & Spencer, £9
This full-bodied red brims with succulent berry and dark fruit. Perfect with grilled red meat.
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Bargain of the week
2024 Taste the Difference Languedoc White
France (12%)
Sainsbury’s, £9.25
This crisp blend combines peach and citrus with floral aromas and a dry finish.
Dining and Cooking