At Castello di Spaltenna’s Michelin-starred Il Pievano, sommelier Elisabetta Urgelli applies an architect’s precision and a deep local knowledge to showcasing Chianti’s evolving identity.
Elisabetta Urgelli began her career designing buildings, not wine lists. Yet her background in architecture has shaped her entire approach to wine.
“My original training gave me, in a sense, the foundations, the structure for a particular approach to the world of wine,” she told the db. “A way of analysing, an understanding of the vineyards as a whole, the blends, and the harmony of it all.”
It was the “wine cathedrals” themselves – the increasingly striking architecture of modern wineries – that drew her into the profession. Combined with the aromas of wood and must that reminded her of her grandparents’ cellar, they inspired her to pursue a world that, at the time, was “almost unknown” to her.
A Tuscan upbringing
Growing up in a Tuscan family with vines and a small wine operation in Montalcino, Urgelli’s early experiences continue to shape how she introduces guests to Chianti.
“When I was younger, I spent time at the Brunello winery owned by my cousin and his partner, both successful oenologists and both driven by an overwhelming passion for this world,” she said.
That passion still guides her today. “I see that same fire in the eyes of the various wine producers every time I visit small family-run wineries,” she added. “It’s like a beacon that regularly motivates me to represent their businesses in the best possible light. I try to convey that love for a bottle rather than trying to be a schoolteacher, telling our guests what they should taste in that glass.”
Reading the landscape
When asked to take readers on a “liquid tour” through Chianti, Urgelli hesitated to single out any producer.
“Each producer is a character in their own right and, as a result, the wines they produce are also unique and unrepeatable,” she said. Instead, she focuses on understanding guests’ preferences and matching wines accordingly. “I try to offer the one that best meets their expectations, through my own vision, of course, which is that touch of personality that every expert inevitably adds.”
Though she admits to having favourites, she prefers to let curiosity guide exploration. “It would not be fair to name them, because this area has so much to offer and so much to discover every day,” she said. “I invite readers to let themselves be carried away by curiosity and a desire to be surprised.”
Collaboration at Il Pievano
At Il Pievano, Urgelli works closely with executive chef Antonio Iacoviello, who took over the Michelin-starred kitchen at Castello di Spaltenna in 2025. A veteran of noma in Copenhagen, Gucci Osteria in Florence and Tokyo, and Osteria Francescana in Modena, Iacoviello has introduced three tasting menus – Sempreverde, Amore Carnale and Ricomincio da Tre – that blend Tuscan tradition with Japanese precision.
“The chef is always very open to discussion,” said Urgelli. “I have no conventions, I am guided by the techniques I have learned over time, I follow my taste and I also consult a lot with the restaurant manager Daniele Agrimi, who has a great deal of know-how in this area.”
Her architectural eye still informs her pairings. “I pay close attention to the persistence of flavour in dishes: when a dish leaves a long-lasting aroma, I choose a wine with the same characteristic,” she explained. “Otherwise, I like to base my choices on the acidity, spiciness and structure of individual recipes — perhaps unconsciously, my vision as an architect comes back here.”
Championing native grapes
While Sangiovese is the heart of Chianti, Urgelli is keen to highlight other native varieties.
“The rediscovery of many native grape varieties that have been overlooked for years is a great stimulus for me: Canaiuolo, Ciliegiolo, Alicante, Pugnitello, but also Trebbiano and Ansonica deserve to be brought to the attention of visitors,” she said.
She also hopes to shine a light on lesser-known appellations beyond Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino. “I am from Maremma, and I believe I have given my homeland a little prominence over the years at Il Pievano,” she added.
The story in the glass
Il Pievano’s wine list focuses on Italy, with particular attention to Tuscany, Piedmont, Lombardy and Veneto. Chianti wines take pride of place thanks to the house label, “Vini del Castello di Spaltenna,” created in collaboration with local winemakers.
“At Castello di Spaltenna, I conduct afternoon tastings for guests who wish to spend an hour with me,” said Urgelli. “During these experiences, I like to delve into the different narratives and, above all, the stories behind each glass.”
Those sessions, which include tastings such as Spaltenna Wines, Chianti Classico Gallo Nero, and Sangiovese in Tuscany, explore how soils, seas and traditions shape the wines. “I can’t reveal too much,” she added. “You’ll have to come and visit us!”
Evolving with Chianti
Looking at how Chianti continues to evolve, Urgelli sees both opportunity and misunderstanding.
“When talking to guests, I notice there is still a lot of confusion about Chianti and Chianti Classico,” she said. “Often the important thing is to say that you have tasted as many labels as possible without fully understanding the tradition, technique and history that are the fundamental pillars of this region.”
Her mission is to change that. “In my own small way, I try to be a spokesperson for this fantastic world,” she said. “It makes me very happy to see so much curiosity spark in my interlocutors’ eyes – so much so that they end up becoming intrigued and asking lots of questions.”
Dining and Cooking