The last light of a Texas sunset fades to pink as I step onto Lockhart’s town square. At its center, the impressive limestone courthouse towers above a crowd drifting between art galleries and boutiques, wine in hand. Like most, I came for the barbecue — but between sips of a crisp Martini and bites of award-winning banana pudding, I realize Lockhart’s culinary renaissance has transformed this barbecue town into an all-around destination. 

Located 35 miles southeast of Austin, Lockhart has long been celebrated as the “Barbecue Capital of Texas,” home to legends like Black’s, Chisholm Trail, Kreutz Market, and Smitty’s. And in recent years the city has drawn chefs, musicians, and entrepreneurs from Austin and beyond. Everywhere I visit is recommended by word of mouth, with owners and chefs championing one another in every conversation. That spirit extends to the city’s leaders.

“To have a direct line to the mayor and city council is huge,” says bar owner Travis Tober. “They want to influence the town in a positive way and understand how important hospitality is to that.” It’s part of what draws newcomers here: the accessibility, creative energy, and the sense of shared investment.

I begin my evening at Old Pal, Travis Tober’s love letter to old Austin — cold beer, fried chicken, and good conversation. Behind the bar, Margaritas are hand-squeezed to order, and the crowd is a mix of locals and weekenders spilling in from the square. Over a plate of jojos and a Dr. Pepper Old Fashioned, a friendly regular tells me not to miss Barbs-B-Q next door.

At Barbs, pitmaster Chuck Carnichart slings Texas barbecue her own way: brisket finished with lime zest, green spaghetti in roasted poblano sauce, and cinnamon-swirl bread to mop up extra drippings. Across the square, chef Sarah Heard of Austin’s Foreign & Domestic brings her farm-to-table philosophy to Lockhart at Commerce Café, where smothered pork chops and housemade pasta meet popovers the size of your hand. Just down the street, Loop & Lil’s serves hand-tossed, wood-fired pizzas with perfectly blistered crusts. Together, these spots capture modern Lockhart: familiar comfort food elevated with quality ingredients, creativity, and an easygoing sense of place. 

What makes this shift so distinct is how organically it’s happened. Much of Lockhart’s growth is driven from within, with locals voicing their eagerness for more and businesses delivering. As Heard puts it, she wanted Commerce Café “to be a bridge into slightly finer dining, while still serving the food everyone wants”—meals that, as she describes, “remind people of what Mom would put on the table.”

As the night cools, I wander past the courthouse to Commerce Gallery, where local artists and curious travelers mingle over wine and contemporary art. Owners Tamara Carlisle and Donna Blair not only showcase rotating exhibitions and host artists-in-residence, they’re also deeply invested in the town. As founding members of the Lockhart Initiative for Tourism, they help preserve the small-town character while promoting arts, culture, and heritage — funding events, forging partnerships, and attracting visitors to support local businesses.

“Lockhart moves at a human scale,” says tourism board member Celeste Quesada. It’s one of those rare small towns where you feel welcome right away. You’re not just sharing a drink, you’re sharing a conversation about life.”

As I consider my options for a nightcap, locals gush about the sheer range of spots that are ideal for ending an evening. Longtime Austin honkytonk owner Dennis O’Donnell — of White Horse and Sagebrush — brings weekly live music to O’Donnell’s, a casual café and pub where you can two-step with a local crowd and soak up Lockhart’s particular brand of cowboy cool. For something cozier, Best Little Wine & Books features curated wines, craft beer, and sake in a space that’s part living room and part tiny bookstore. Despite having the best patio in town, guests linger for hours under the thoughtful guidance of owner Kaye Askins, a CMS-certified sommelier. Tucked away down an alley, The Case Room provides an intimate speakeasy experience where I sip an ice cold Martini as bluegrass drifts in from the attached Fiddler’s Green Music Shop.

When it’s time to call it a night, I head to The Leona. On the short walk from the town square, I reflect on the vast creativity packed into this tiny town. It’s easy to see why so many have traded city noise for Lockhart’s slower rhythm in a community that values connection as much as craft. The Leona’s private cabins blend modern design with rustic charm, set amid native gardens and a natural spring. Thoughtfully built and deeply serene, it resembles a true oasis. For larger groups, Nightbirds Hospitality offers expertly restored colonial homes and turn-of-the-century estates that marry well-curated design with old-world luxe.

The next morning, I fuel up at Thorn & Bred Mercantile for coffee and Chaparral for breakfast tacos, before wandering the town for souvenirs. After exploring Saturday’s farmers market, I wander into The Culinary Room, where Alana Webre has created a treasure trove of small-batch gourmet goods, from locally made jams and olive oils to globally sourced treats. Of course, the real draw is her award-winning banana pudding: thick, rich, and made fresh daily. Every item on the shelves reflects Alana’s mission: to bring Lockhart a taste of the world while championing small brands you won’t find elsewhere.

And because all roads in Lockhart eventually lead back to barbecue, my final stop on the way out of town is Mill Scale Metalworks. Brothers Matt and Caleb Johnson build live-fire grills and smokers designed for chefs and home cooks alike, supplying some of the best pitmasters in Texas and around the world. For these brothers, barbecue is about the ritual of cooking with fire, the conversations around the pit, and the joy of sharing a meal with others. For anyone inspired to bring a bit of that spirit home, Mill Scale’s retail shop offers a selection of rubs, sauces, and hand-forged cooking tools.

Theirs is a sentiment that captures Lockhart — a town built on smoke, storytelling, and genuine connection. Barbecue may remain its heartbeat, but the true flavor of Lockhart lies in its people, its hospitality, and the unexpected discoveries that keep you coming back.

Dining and Cooking