New Jersey’s obsession with Italian food is well-documented. And Nutley is one of the most predominantly Italian-American towns in all of the Garden State.
So when the team behind New American restaurant The Hudson Rose realized their concept wasn’t clicking with the town, they decided to pivot. To Italian food.
But they didn’t simply throw some pastas on the menu or put up some new artwork. After less than one year of business, they completely rebranded the restaurant as Bacarosa.
“Part of it was getting to know the area and getting honest with ourselves,” general manager Eric Binder told NJ Advance Media. “We decided to change everything rather than just menu, and tie in a story. ‘Bacaro’ is a small Italian wine bar in Venice, and ‘rosa,’ is an homage to The Hudson Rose.”
Along with chef Andrew Riccatelli, Binder and the team curated an Italian menu with a twist, something to resonate with the local community while going against the grain.
“Our mission is to strike a chord with the heavily Italian demographic,” Binder said. “But stand out and not be a pizza or red sauce joint.”
They took things a step further by honoring feedback they received while operating as The Hudson Rose and lowered the price point significantly without sacrificing quality. They also introduced a fittingly tomato-themed dice game all customers get to pay.
“We have guests roll a pair of dice, and if they land on two tomatoes, we comp their entire check,” Binder said. “Our goal isn’t to give away food, but we have seen such a return on that with guests coming back and telling their friends. It’s been exciting to see the community embrace us in this new identity.”
I arrived during “Aperitivo Hour” and was excited to dive into that menu and more.
The good
I was eager to make the most of the $6 dollar “Aperitivo Hour” menu, which featured an extensive selection of full-sized items from their core menu, plus a burger.
Antipasto salad at Bacarosa in Nutley(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The antipasto salad ($6) was a crisp, zingy start to the meal, heavy on the parm and pepperoncini, which I did not mind at all. Packed with soppressata, provolone and artichokes, this hearty salad was well worth the tiny price tag and set the tone for what was to follow.
“Pigs in a blanket” at Bacarosa in Nutley(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The “pigs in a blanket” ($6) were another hit. An Italian riff on the American classic, these little pockets of sesame seed-coated puff pastry were stuffed with mortadella and smoked mozzarella and served on a pool of Roman mustard. These rich and nostalgic ingredients gave the dish the flavor profile of a pastrami sandwich with an Italian twist.
Yellowtail crudo at Bacarosa in Nutley(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The core menu is composed mostly of small plates meant for sharing, and the yellowtail crudo ($22) was a light and fresh reprieve from the heavier Italian items ordered. This gorgeously plated dish sported bright flavors like apple, cucumber and rose vinegar, which complimented the tender, mild fish perfectly.
Amatriciana pizza at Bacarosa in Nutley(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The pizza section was enticing from all angles. But I ultimately went with a brand new menu addition, the Amatriciana ($19), an ode to the classic Roman pasta dish. This pie was topped with San Marzano tomatoes, guanciale, red onion, straciatella and Calabrian chili. I was surprised how light this crispy pizza was given the robust flavor profile.
Ricotta gnocchi at Bacarosa in Nutley(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The house-made pasta course was the highlight of the night, starting with my favorite of the two ordered, the ricotta gnocchi ($19). Anything pistachio gets an automatic leg up for me, and this nutty pesto didn’t disappoint. Enrobed in the verdant, green sauce and studded with buffalo mozzarella, the pillowy gnocchi was delicate and delicious.
Mafaldine at Bacarosa in Nutley(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The mafaldine ($24) surprised me texturally, with the bouncy, al dente noodles complimenting the clams and toasty breadcrumbs remarkably. It was lemon-forward in a great way — a fun play on classic spaghetti with clams.
Rainbow cookies at Bacarosa in Nutley(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The meal was strong into the dessert course, as well, starting with a trio of behemoth rainbow cookies ($10). Moist, dense and coated in chocolate with crunchy curls and powdered sugar on top, they were so delectable that I would come back here just for these.
Olive oil cake at Bacarosa in Nutley(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The olive oil cake ($10) was on par with the cookies, offering a lighter, seasonal take on a simpler Italian favorite. This sweet treat was topped with whipped cream, olive oil and sea salt and served with fresh figs — the moist slice disappeared with very little effort.
Chicken parm at Bacarosa in Nutley(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)The bad
There were a few dishes that, with a bit of tweaking, could have been show-stoppers but fell short. Served on Wednesdays only, the chicken parm ($19) was a work of art. Fried to a deep golden brown and topped with the perfect ratio of sauce and cheese, everything about this sizable cutlet was spectacular. Except the salinity. Somewhere within the breading, a heavy hand of salt was used — and that overpowered every crispy bite. Had that not have been the case, this parm would have gotten glowing marks, especially with a $19 price tag.
Piedmontese beef strip at Bacarosa in Nutley(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
Another entree that suffered from a technical issue was the Piedmontese beef strip ($54). The 14-ounce beauty was cooked to well done on one end and barely pink on the other, making it dry, flavorless and far too reliant on the massive dollop of tomato butter over top. The potatoes and broccolini were good, but not good enough to save the dish.
Dining room at Bacarosa in Nutley(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)The vibe
Having previously dined at The Hudson Rose, I absolutely loved the aesthetic changes that management made for Bacarosa.
The beautiful overhead fixtures shine a subtle light into the dining room, allowing candlelit tables to take centerstage. The soft burgundy walls add a coziness to the large, open space, with smatterings of green from the plant-lined perimeter. You could have several different experiences in Bacarosa’s space — from a casual seat at the energetic bar, to a big family dinner, to an intimate date night at one of the charming two-tops by the gorgeous wine cellar.
There’s also a glass enclosed private dining room for those who want something even more exclusive. Overall, Bacarosa is an upgrade when it comes to ambiance.
Aperitivo Hour menu at Bacarosa in Nutley(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)The bottom line
Bacarosa is a great fit for Nutley and the surrounding towns. The Italian-American menu is interesting and varied, yet familiar enough for those seeking simpler classics. With some of the most competitive happy hour and menu special prices in the state, I was truly impressed by the large portion sizes, high level of quality across the board, and extensive wine list (three by-the-glass pour size options included).
Yes, New Jersey is awash in Italian-American restaurants. But sometimes, that’s exactly what Garden State foodies want. Especially when the dishes are executed as well as the ones at Bacarosa.
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Dining and Cooking