Credit: photos by Whitney Runyon
A classic red sauce Italian joint represents, in my humble opinion, the very best version of comfort food. Lots of carbs, lots of cheese, hearty portions, usually a glass (or a bottle) of wine to wash it all down – it’s my happy place, and I know I’m not alone in that. Olive Garden didn’t become a multigenerational favorite for no reason.
When you visit Cousin Louie’s, a newish Italian American spot in Southwest Austin, “when you’re here, you’re family” will surely pop into your head, whether you like it or not. The Olive Garden parallels are abundant, including the fact that the restaurant’s tiled floors, leather booths, and framed vintage-looking photos have a similar uncanny valley effect. Both Olive Garden and Cousin Louie’s feel like theme park re-creations of a traditional Brooklyn Italian restaurant. The soundtrack of old-timey music – including Frank Sinatra’s “New York, New York” – at the Belterra restaurant didn’t help. But to Cousin Louie’s’ credit, they do weave in some more modern touches, like industrial exposed pipes and wide windows with abundant light.
Cousin Louie’s also exceeds its corporate peer with the quality of its menu. Generally speaking, you’ll eat (and drink) far better here than you would at good ol’ OG. The appetizer section includes a strong blend of Italian American favorites, including crispy and stretchy mozzarella sticks served with pizza shop-esque marinara, but as far as meal starters are concerned, I was most delighted to see a basket of complimentary bread and olive oil quickly arrive at every table. The plush bread makes a great conduit for the oregano-seasoned oil, but I do wish that the team would consider serving it warm. Cold bread just doesn’t have the same magic as a toasty, pillowy roll.
Tiramisu
The Meatballs Marinara seems to be a dish that Cousin Louie’s wants to position as a menu staple, and I think they fulfill that hope. The meatballs themselves feature a springy texture, avoiding the dreaded too-dense pratfall so common among restaurant meatballs, and the marinara sauce is zippy. If you’re used to meatballs slow-cooked in Nonna’s Sunday gravy (as am I), the lightweight marinara might not meet expectations. But those who love the meatball-marinara combo usually found on meatball subs will fully appreciate this appetizer.
The restaurant serves baked clams in two styles: clams casino, with bacon, breadcrumbs, green pepper, and garlic; and clams oreganata, with white wine, garlic, breadcrumbs, and oregano. The clams casino bursts with bacon, and the grassy green peppers provide some vegetal contrast. As for the oreganata, the oregano shines bright, and the soft and light texture is appealing. But if you’re looking for bold clam flavor in either version, you’ll be disappointed.
Cousin Louie’s serves lunch every day, and while the lunch and dinner menus include many of the same dishes, lunch visitors can also partake of an expanded salad section and several focaccia-based sandwiches. The Italiano sub boasts salty and satisfying meats like capicola, salami, and mortadella, a layer of peppery arugula that brings some welcome freshness, and a pleasant but unremarkable aïoli. That said, I questioned their choice to swap out the typical provolone for fresh mozzarella. The buttery flavor and semi-hard texture of provolone are more effective counterparts for funky and savory cured meats, and the fresh mozzarella’s damp texture soaked through the focaccia.
It’s a stretch to call Cousin Louie’s a destination-worthy restaurant.
The concise pasta list includes seven options: some vegetarian, some with seafood, and some with red meat. The vodka sauce tossed with the gnocchi benefits from a smooth texture and a touch of lingering red pepper heat at the finish, and I appreciated the bits of crisp prosciutto distributed throughout. But the gnocchi unfortunately suffered from a too-soft texture, and the addition of soft and milky-flavored burrata only drove that issue further. Replacing it with a heartier pasta, like rigatoni or even the classic penne, and skipping the burrata in favor of a hearty dusting of quality Parmigiano or pecorino would make the dish an unqualified success.
Baked clams
Lasagna has to be the grande dame of Italian comfort food dishes; those of us who love it crave an umami-packed Bolognese, a rich béchamel, and excellently crisp pasta edges. Cousin Louie’s’ version nails some of those attributes: The choice to serve the lasagna in individual cast-iron skillets is brilliant, as the well-cooked pasta gained a great deal of crunch along the skillet rim. The Bolognese and béchamel didn’t make much of an impression, as the heavy coat of fresh mozzarella muffled all of the other ingredients. But if you’re a corner-piece lasagna fan, then this one’s worth ordering for those edges alone.
The Chicken Scallopini section is a treat for poultry lovers who yearn for variety. Cousin Louie’s offers four distinct breaded chicken dishes. I opted for the chicken piccata and found myself thoroughly charmed by the tender and juicy chicken, the breading that retained some texture, the pleasantly al dente side of spaghetti, and the assertive presence of both lemon and capers in the sauce.
The dessert menu is exactly what I’d expect from an Italian American restaurant: tiramisu, panna cotta, chocolate cake, and New York-style cheesecake. But I’ll admit to being surprised by the high quality of both desserts I ordered. Tiramisu comes in a large dessert bowl, so it’s easy to share, and delivers a powerful espresso flavor that’s well balanced by mascarpone’s delicate funk. I’ll also admit to being something of a cheesecake skeptic; I’ve just had too many dense and stomach-burdening versions in the past. Fortunately, Cousin Louie’s’ cheesecake proves thick but fluffy, with a bright raspberry sauce and a snappy gingersnap crust.
Cousin Louie’s is a beer-and-wine-only establishment, but in addition to their well-curated and well-priced Italian wine list, they serve frozen cocktails (a Bellini is the current selection) and a handful of lively prosecco cocktails like the Summer Spritz, which drinks like a drier and more citrusy Aperol Spritz.
It’s a stretch to call Cousin Louie’s a destination-worthy restaurant, which might make its Belterra location an impediment. But if you happen to be in the area and are in the mood for solid and homey food, reasonable wine prices, and very cheerful and warm service, then come hungry and rest assured that you’ll leave full and satisfied.
Cousin Louie’s
165 Hargraves Ste. T-100
cousin-louies.com
This article appears in July 11 • 2025.
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Dining and Cooking