WHEN it comes to the bottomless brunch, I’ve been a bit late to the party.

The dining concept, combining a set meal with unlimited drinks for a fixed price and time limit, has become hugely popular over recent years. I went to my first one last year; it was a very boozy afternoon and to be honest I don’t recall much about the food. I think we ate nachos. The rest is a blur.

Three or four bottomless brunches later – at various venues and with varying quality of food – I’ve learned that the dining element of this deal is important. You need a substantial dish, and not just to soak up the booze.

So when we booked a table at La Cachette for a family ‘botty b’, as it’s now referred to in our WhatsApp group, I was confident that the food was going to be good.

Eric Poli, who runs the cosy bistro, nestled between Shipley and Saltaire, makes the kind of food that people remember long after they’ve eaten it – for all the right reasons. The chef, born in France but pretty much a Yorkshireman after spending most of his adult life here, cooks generous, characterful dishes, bursting with flavour.

After 14 years running The Terrace, the popular Saltaire restaurant voted Best UK Bistro in French food guide Les Routiers, Eric opened a mobile eatery, Saltaire Belle, which serves burgers and sandwiches at festivals and other events.

Now Eric runs La Cachette which has quickly developed a reputation for delicious food and warm hospitality.

Inspired by the food he grew up with – and dishes he cooked in the kitchens of Michelin starred restaurants – Eric crafts hearty flavours of France, with “every dish a celebration of authenticity and tradition”.

The bistro serves breakfast, lunch and an evening menu. Bottomless brunch options are from the breakfast and lunch menu, which includes Full House: smoked bacon, sausages, grilled tomato, black pudding, mushroom, poached egg, beans and sourdough toast; Moroccan breakfast of Shakshuka and scrambled harissa eggs, merguez sausages, flatbread and chermoula meatballs; and Oeuf en cocotte: Spinach, boursin cheese, poached eggs; crushed avocado on toasted sourdough.

Other choices include Croque Madame: warm toasted sourdough sandwich filled with ham, bechamel and gruyere and poached egg; omelettes; hot dog and fries and fish tacos, which I was tempted by.

I went for the Syrian makdous – aubergines stuffed with walnuts, served with red pepper and poached eggs on flat bread. It was utterly delicious. Oozing garlic and olive oil, the stuffed aubergines popped with flavour, and the pepper delivered quite a kick.

My sister loved her minute steak in toasted garlic baguette with smooth salsa verde, salad leaves and fries.

The bottomless brunch deal was £35 per head which, for excellent food and drinks flowing throughout our 90-minute slot, was great value. We ordered two baked Camemberts as extras, which we shared between our party of nine, dipping chunks of bread into the heavenly melted cheese, fondue-style. Our waitress was friendly and efficient, dealing with our food orders and keeping our glasses filled with prosecco, spirits and the occasional cocktail.

With French prints on the walls, and twinkling fairy lights, the rustic, bohemian vibe of La Cachette is right up my street. Perfect for a meal with family or friends, or an intimate dinner for two.

La Cachette is on Kirkgate in Shipley. Tel. (01274) 596114. Visit lacachette.co.uk

Dining and Cooking