Well, I am so glad I didn't read the reviews on here before going to Steirereck, because I found the experience to be downright delightful. I loved the space, the atmosphere, and the service (warm, funny, not stilted or rigid).
Having said that, I can understand why some people felt underwhelmed. Steirereck, to me, is not about big, bold flavors. It's not the salt, butter, and acid bomb we've come to associate with most starred dining. Steirereck is about the simplicity in local, seasonal ingredients and the perfection of technique, both traditional and innovative.
Take for instance the char, cooked in beeswax. Any half-masterful chef can cook a decent piece of fish, but the immaculate and delicate nature of this dish stood out to me, paired with beautiful presentation. Then, you have the various little treats and tricks of the night: a bread trolley of 20+ kinds, a beautiful digestif cart, and a stunning cheese selection.
Steirereck maybe isn't a restaurant for everyone, but if you think it may be a restaurant for you, I'd encourage you to add it to your list.
by loratliff
4 Comments
Makes me wonder if their bakery team does all of that in house! Beautiful.
I can’t put my finger on it but for some reason this isn’t particularly appealing to me?
I agree with you. While it was not the most outstanding meal I had in my life you describe perfectly what it’s all about. It has the Viennese nonchalance of a very great meal and deserves 2+ stars for exactly that + an incredible consistency. Other places in Vienna ( Mratz and Sohn for example ) turn the switch to 11 but that’s just not the intent here. By the way, if you are still in Austria, Taubenkobel is a delightful meal not to far and so is Harald Irkas cuisine, especially for his age.
How was the bread?
One thing that greatly startled me was how terrible bread was in Austria.