Lady RogersShutterstock
Now aged 71, she shows no sign of slowing down, even in the midst of a global pandemic. Shakespeare relates that Rogers has been keeping her roster of high-profile fans, who include Jemima Goldsmith, Nigella Lawson and Gwyneth Paltrow, well fed with food delivered to their homes. She is quoted as stating: ‘We have this phrase: “If you can’t come to the River Cafe, then the River Cafe will come to you.”
‘Everyone was furloughed except for the team of myself, Sian Owen, Joseph Trivelli [the two co-Head Chefs] and Vashti Armit [Restaurant Manager]. Then we decided to start a shop. At first we sold olive oil, tomatoes from Puglia, oregano, borlotti beans, wine. Then we put pesto and tomato sauce on, because that didn’t involve a lot of chefs. Then we had a butcher prepare chicken and lamb. Then a fish person said they had beautiful Dover sole and we had a way to package the fish.’
As well as cheese, salumi, wine and store cupboard items (like dried pasta and tinned anchovies), the offerings from the River Cafe’s online shop have now expanded to include a number of restaurant favourites, ready to prepare at home. From turbot tranche or butterflied leg of lamb to zucchini trifolati (fried courgette) and wood-roasted aubergines, there are plenty of options for a truly spectacular meal. And dessert hasn’t been forgotten, with delights such as apricot and almond tart or chocolate, hazelnut espresso cake on the menu. Deliveries are currently available to London postcodes, with next day delivery or collection options for orders placed by 3pm.
While the service has certainly been welcomed by those missing the acclaimed restaurant, Lady Rogers adds that it has also provided an uplifting project for staff during the River Cafe’s period of closure. And in a hopeful nod to brighter days to come, she adds: ‘I’ve been able to un-furlough four chefs out of 30, and two waiters who help with the packaging. We’re working on how we can make the restaurant safe when it reopens. That will probably mean fewer tables inside. I’m so fortunate I have outdoor space.’
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