Les Nomades, one of Chicago’s oldest fine dining institutions, has served its final souffle. After nearly five decades in Streeterville, the acclaimed French restaurant is now closed amid the impending sale of its historic building at 222 E. Ontario Street.
“The time has come for us to hang up our aprons and say farewell,” owner Mary Beth Liccioni announced in a post on Instagram. “When we opened our doors … we never could have imagined the incredible journey ahead — the laughter shared over meals, the celebrations hosted at our tables, and the friendships that blossomed over the years. You welcomed us into your lives, and for that, we are forever grateful.”
Restaurateur Jovan Trboyevic opened Les Nomades in 1978 as a private club built around a vision of understated French elegance: white tablecloths, fireplaces, flower arrangements, and a strict jacket policy. Under Roland Liccioni, who led the kitchen for much of its run, the restaurant earned national attention and a devoted following for its seasonal cooking and signature dishes like wild mushroom soup, roasted duck, and Grand Marnier souffle. His then-wife, Mary Beth Liccioni, purchased the business in 1993 and managed it until its closing. Among the chefs to pass through Les Nomades over the years was Chris Nugent — he would later go on to found Goosefoot in Lincoln Square — and Duck Sel’s Donald Young. Roland Liccioni retired in 2024.
Earlier this summer, the three-story brownstone that is home to Les Nomades went on the market with a $3.4 million asking price. At the time, Mary Beth Liccioni said she didn’t see the restaurant continuing after the sale. She could not be reached for comment, but a message on the restaurant’s OpenTable page says, “The building that houses Les Nomades is being sold. We are unfortunately retiring.”
With its closure, Les Nomades joins a list of longtime fine dining institutions that have shuttered in recent years, such as Spiaggia, Everest, and Blackbird. Once pillars of the city’s culinary scene, these restaurants offered decades of refined cuisine and elegant service, and their departures underscore the ongoing transformation of Chicago’s fine dining landscape.
Dining and Cooking