“The dishes – jägerschnitzel, veal scaloppini, lamb pfeffer, salmon prepared in parchment, salads put together a la minute – evoke thoughts of restaurants past. The menu suggests reliability and stability.”

Those observations, from a 2019 review of Patria, are not likely to prickle one’s fears. But imagine the potential for queasy uncertainties when taking over such a place from its previous owner. Established restaurants – even those frequently voted as the best in Salinas – come with baggage: regulars wary of change, reputations easily shaken by a rookie mistake. Yet this is the tightrope Ernie Amorim and Chef Jose Aranda chose to navigate.

“It can be daunting, because you want results right away,” Amorim says. “We wanted to keep the regulars happy and bring new people in. There has been a real positive response.”

The pair have successfully transformed Patria into Patria on Main – a name that fits neatly. There have been many changes. Chairs were reupholstered, decor refreshed and the dated bar given a sleek new style. For the first time, the restaurant serves a line of seasonal craft cocktails and mocktails.

In its previous iteration, German, French and Swiss dishes featured prominently on the Patria menu. It was one of the few local kitchens serving rabbit. Chef Aranda introduced more of an Italian flair – skirt steak pappardelle, bucatini with blackened salmon – as well as upscale bistro staples, such as filet mignon, lamb in Cabernet sauce and grilled red snapper.

“We did keep the jägerschnitzel, which was the top seller,” Amorim points out, as well as a few other favorites.

Familiarity masks the extent of the changes, particularly for those fond of the old spot, but infrequent in attendance. Almost a year since the two industry veterans purchased the restaurant from Paolo Kautz, it has gone from a decidedly Old World den to an urbane hub. The bar in particular has taken on an air of sophistication.

“Sometimes people just come in for drinks,” Amorim observes. “Sometimes they will have dinner at another restaurant then come here after.”

He considered adding TVs in the bar area. At his family’s Pizza Factory franchise there are more than a dozen. “But that’s not the vibe,” Amorim says. “I mean, I love the Niners, but you don’t want to be having an anniversary dinner and hear, ‘touchdown!’”

Amorim and Aranda helm Pasta Mia in the Northridge Mall. For seven years they also owned Mia Fusion Cuisine. In addition, Amorim’s family has a Crumbl Cookies franchise. “My first place was a franchise,” he says. “You learn the structure.” By structure, Amorim is referring to the often mundane tasks that lead to success of a restaurant, such as how to run the business, to manage people and to reach customers.

The two were not afraid of the challenges presented by an established, popular restaurant. But they did approach the transition with care. After taking the reins in November 2024, they worked closely with Kautz, waiting until February to introduce an updated menu.

“We didn’t want it to be a big shock – ‘We’re this now,’” Amorim explains. “We wanted to get to know the employees.”

While they tried to appease old regulars with schnitzel and Old World touches – phrases such as beurre blanc and demi glaze dot the menu – the new owners also began to appeal to the market. Diners continue to trend toward smaller plates, shared dishes, local items, away from formality and, as inflation casts its pall, toward value.

Wine hour ran through October, pairing local vintages with pizzas or other bites. There is more emphasis on seasonality, a notion that even spreads to the bar. Golden hour is their take on happy hour, with a list of appetizers and pared down entrees prepared specifically for early dining.

“The price point is really good,” Amorim points out. “We’re trying to hit a lot of people.”

So over the course of a year, Patria on Main has become the new Patria normal – a restaurant recognizable, but quite distinct. “It was pretty smooth,” Amorim says of the transition. “Paolo was great. He helped us out. He wants to see us succeed.”

PATRIA ON MAIN, 228 Main St., Salinas. (831) 424-5555, patriaonmain.com.

Dining and Cooking