Welcome to our 2025 Spain guide
Ines Salpico, Decanter Regional Editor for Spain
It’s been an eye-opening, fascinating year, for reasons both good and bad, a turbulent period, not least across southern Europe’s vineyards, where, after years plagued by drought, wildfires caused heartbreaking destruction.
On the other hand, in the face of such severe challenges, there are signs of strengthened passion and creativity, especially among winemakers in what are, perhaps, unexpected Spanish regions. It’s often what happens on the margins and in interstitial spaces – where there are fewer obstacles to be avoided and paradigms can be reconfigured – that shapes the course of history.
Less burdened with expectations and rules, these are places where creativity and talent thrive, allowing for the creation of forward momentum.
This year’s Spain guide focuses precisely on what’s happening in those fertile pockets of freedom that are fuelling a revision of the Spanish wine canon in exciting, promising ways.
Ferran Centelles’ guest column sets the tone by questioning the orthodoxy of the laws that determine DO-stamped winemaking. It has a perfect companion in Beth Willard’s report on wines without DO. We also explore the resurgence of the Levante in the southeast, the new blood of Ribeira Sacra in the northwest and the revival of Málaga in the far south.
But perhaps my favourite feature is a collection of heartfelt reminiscences from nine expert contributors who aren’t Spanish themselves, describing the wine and/or moment that made them fall in love with Spain’s wine and culture. It captures the meaning of this fascinating industry by showing how vividly it connects with memory and emotion. That connection is even stronger when in Spain – a country where emotions are intense and deep. The pages make the case for innovation, creativity, respect for tradition, sense of identity and industrious rebelliousness. All of which could be considered a much-needed reminder of what truly makes a life well lived.
Dining and Cooking