San Francisco has a phenomenal Thai scene for every sort of diner: Chase Michelin stars at Kin Khao, feast on 11 courses at the aptly named Hed 11. In West Portal, a neighborhood with a recent rise in restaurant activity, Khao Tiew shows San Franciscans a new class of Thai cuisine, one representing an understated but inventive level of cooking.

Khao Tiew appears lantern-lit before you spot the big TV, showcasing a rotating series of random food videos. The kitchen roars with energy. Everything between you and its heat is a sea of people laughing, couples enjoying each other for what seems like the first time. Many restaurants seek out this energy, even paying marketing firms to focus group how to capture it. Khao Tiew achieves it effortlessly.

Buffer in extra time to eat at Khao Tiew. Arrive when it opens at 4 p.m. and put your name down on the restaurant’s kiosk; you can do it through Yelp’s app, too. Your wait time is the ideal chance to play pool at the excellent Philosopher’s Club around the corner.

Dining and Cooking