Amelia’s isn’t trying to be a speakeasy (there are already four of those on Front Street!), but it feels exclusive, at least at first. It’s located in the lower level of its much more casual big-sister restaurant, The Farmer’s Rail, which serves burgers, sandwiches and salads highlighting the wares of its farm and butcher shop. So far, though, there’s no signage to clue diners in to the exact location.

“How do we get to Amelia’s?” I nervously asked the Farmer’s Rail hostess, who smiled conspiratorially and said, “Oh, I’ll take you,” before leading us down a set of stairs. When she opened the heavy wooden door at the bottom, we were transported from The Farmer’s Rail’s bright and airy atmosphere into a dark, moody space outfitted in jewel tones, leather and dark wood. The transformation is stark and almost exhilarating.

Inside Amelia’s, every available surface, from the walls and shelves to the classic end tables, is adorned with well-worn books, antique artwork and collectible knick-knacks. Co owner Melanie Brunty found each item herself, gathering treasures like brass animals, glass ashtrays and large showpieces like marble busts and gilded mirrors. Tall wooden bookshelves divide the space into more than half a dozen smaller areas that Brunty calls “cubbies.” The result is that every spot in the house feels intimate, even when the restaurant is filled to its 70-person capacity.

“I wanted just a few areas for people to really just hang out and have fun and relax and just, you know, kind of get lost in,” says Brunty. “It’s this cool, feel-good place with old Hollywood Regency vibes and vintage everything on the walls.”

Dining and Cooking