The original Le Veau d’Or (French for “the golden calf”) opened on the Upper East Side in 1937, making it the city’s oldest French bistro. While it closed in 2019, after a five-year hiatus, chefs Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson (Frenchette, Le Rock, and most recently, Wild Cherry) reopened the famed spot to much fanfare and many accolades. It pays homage to its lengthy history with touches like an old framed menu on the wall, but don’t be mistaken: It’s one of the most lively and least stuffy fine dining restaurants around.

The martini can be made “our way” or “your way,” but there’s really only one right answer: The dry gin “our way” version comes with a salty vermouth sidecar, making it the best martini in the city.

If you can’t snag a coveted reservation, try walking in around 5 p.m. for one of the five bar seats, where you can also order a la carte.

Dining and Cooking