The Ultimate Guide to Oregon Truffles

James Beard, the late American chef, cookbook author and educator, was once quoted as stating that the Oregon truffle is as good as Italian examples. Beard, an Oregon native, was a champion of the aromatic fungus from the state even during a time when its reputation was somewhat diminished.

“Thirty years ago, there was a consensus that Oregon truffles were an inexpensive substitute for the real thing,” says Charles Lefevre, co-founder of the Oregon Truffle Festival and founder of New World Truffieres. Lefevre says that as local foragers became aware of the value of Oregon truffles, they began using rakes, indiscriminately harvesting any truffles in their path. As a result, the underripe truffles on offer underwhelmed chefs and connoisseurs, and Oregon’s reputation suffered.

“But my experience was that, when ripe, [Oregon truffles] compared very well, at least in terms of intensity, and absolutely stand up with the European species,” Lefevre adds.

Oregon truffles are still not as familiar to many as their French and Italian counterparts. But thanks to Lefevre and his cohorts, they are gaining recognition and being highlighted in regional, seasonal dishes, putting the Pacific Northwest at the forefront of the nascent truffle industry in the United States.

Charles Ruff, culinary director at the Oregon Truffle Festival, says, “The Oregon black truffle is completely unique from others in the world. For me, it pairs well with sweet dishes because it has this dark cherry, cassis and amaretto quality. The winter white is similar to an Italian white Alba, with garlic, ramp and lemony overtones.”

For Ruff, buying Oregon truffles is as much about place as it is about season and preference, and if someone lives in the Pacific Northwest, they should absolutely be seeking them out. “They’re from here; they’re fresher here, and whatever you’re going to pair them with is also from here,” he says.

DJ MacIntyre of Willamette Valley Vineyards with local truffle hunter Maura Malone. (Andréa Johnson)

There is another benefit to Oregon truffles: the cost. Oregon truffles typically fetch up to $800 per pound, compared with the approximate $2,000 per pound for Italian truffles. However, Lefevre and Ruff believe one remaining missing piece is infrastructure. For now, anyone interested in buying Oregon truffles has to find those individual harvesters and often pay more in shipping costs than the cost of the truffles themselves. “We need companies serving as bulk distributors that buy from multiple harvesters and sell to distributors across the country,” says Lefevre.

Oregon’s annual truffle festival is largely focused on education, which Ruff says is another hurdle to garnering broader interest. “People are intimidated. It’s not like working with other ingredients; there’s a learning curve. Unless you have a good budget for your pantry, it helps to know ahead of time how you’re going to use it.”

Ruff’s advice for curious at-home chefs: Find something fat-based, like butter or cream, and gas-infuse it for a few days; storing an item in the same container with truffles allows the gas that the truffle emits to seep into the ingredient.

“That really captures more of what the truffle has to offer and shows a broader spectrum than just shaved.”

Where to Enjoy Truffles When In Oregon

Canard’s vadouvan carrot arancini with roasted carrot hummus, carrot truffle vinaigrette, herbed goat cheese, truffled honey-glazed cipollini and fresh truffles (Leesa Mor)

Restaurants

Canard

Best of Award of Excellence

734 E. Burnside St., Portland; canardrestaurant.com

Mucca Osteria

Best of Award of Excellence

1022 SW Morrison St., Portland; muccaosteria.com

The Joel Palmer House Restaurant

Best of Award of Excellence

600 Ferry St., Dayton, Ore.; joelpalmerhouse.com

Wineries

Alloro Vineyard

22185 SW Lebeau Road, Sherwood, Ore.; allorovineyard.com

Rex Hill Winery

30835 OR-99W, Newberg, Ore.; rexhill.com

Willamette Valley Vineyards

8800 Enchanted Way SE., Turner. Ore.; wvv.com

Oregon Truffles: A Primer

The Oregon winter white truffle is the most prevalent species in the state. (Andréa Johnson)

There are four native edible wild truffle species in Oregon. They are typically found growing on the roots of Douglas firs, a common tree across the state. The harvest seasons for the truffles fluctuate, with the most concentrated time in mid-to-late winter and early spring, during the peak rainy season. Dogs are the preferred method of searching due to their ability to sniff out ripe truffles.

Oregon Winter White Truffle (Tuber Oregonense): Perhaps the most prevalent of the four native species, it can be very small, from marble to golf ball in size, with an appearance and aroma similar to the Italian white—a pale brown or cream color and pungent, garlicky, sometimes cheesy and even diesel gas aroma. Typical availability is early fall to midwinter.

Oregon Spring White Truffle (Tuber Gibbosum): Akin to the winter truffle but with more limited availability (typically late winter through June), the spring white’s aroma is often more nuanced, with garlic and spice notes, but it is usually milder at harvest time.

Oregon Black Truffle (Leucangium Cascadiense): This truffle is most prolific in the Coast Range foothills above the Willamette Valley. It can grow to 5 inches across, with a warty black exterior and a pronounced fruity-musky aroma that can intensify as it ages, developing into a more savory version. Its season is long, typically spanning late summer through midwinter.

Oregon Brown Truffle (Kalapuya Brunnea): Like the black (above), this has a limited range and is more elusive, with a season that generally spans late summer through midwinter. It shows an orangish-brown color and a garlicky odor.

The Oregon black truffle exudes a fruity-musky aroma. (Andréa Johnson)

Care and Handling

Truffles should be refrigerated, but it’s essential to keep them dry. Wrapping them in paper towels and frequently changing the towels helps to abate moisture. Ruff notes that since truffles are still alive and respirating after harvest, they need oxygen to continue ripening. While it’s important to store in an airtight container, opening the container periodically to allow oxygen in will help with the process. Depending on how ripe the truffle is when acquired, it can last up to 10 days. When ready to use, remove any dirt with a soft brush.

When to Visit

February is “Oregon truffle month.” Visitors can enjoy various dinners, wine pairings and more. In addition, the annual Oregon Truffle Festival features a truffle-dog hunting competition, lectures and cooking classes. oregontrufflefestival.org

Where to Stay

The Alison Inn & Spa

A special package for February includes a two-night stay with a guided truffle hunt, lunch at a featured Willamette Valley winery and truffle-inspired dinners with wine pairings. 2525 Alison Lane, Newberg, Ore.; theallison.com

Truffle Hunting

Black Tie Tours

Stefan Czarnecki—whose family operates Best of Award of Excellence winner Joel Palmer House Restaurant (see above) in Dayton, Oregon, operates a company that offers seasonal tours that can include a truffle hunt, rounded out with lunch and wines at a Willamette Valley winery. blacktietours.com

First Nature Tours

Interactive hunts and educational courses are supported by a demonstration of all things truffle, including culinary preparation and use. The program concludes with a picnic lunch paired with regional wines. firstnaturetours.com

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