The Philippines’ first-ever Michelin restaurants
“I AM ANXIOUS beyond belief,” said chef Josh Boutwood frankly ahead of the unveiling of The Philippines’ Michelin Guide, the latest addition to a family of little red guidebooks that now counts over sixty members around the world.
The chef, who leads a number of Manila restaurants including 24-seater Helm, wasn’t the only one losing sleep. Anticipation and stress were the fate of many chefs in the weeks before the announcement of The Philippines’ Michelin Guide awardees. But so was a sense of pride that the local dining scene was finally getting the international recognition it deserved.
“It gives the Philippines and our cuisine a platform to be seen in a new light by different diners around the world,” said chef Jordy Navarra of Toyo Eatery. “The Michelin Guide has always been one of those standards of dining that all chefs talk about and look forward to—or fear!”
Putting Filipino flavours on the global map
Chef Josh Boutwood of Michelin two-starred Helm
Michelin one-star restaurants
In addition to validating the place of Filipino cuisine on the world map, Chef Stephan Duhesme of Metiz sees the arrival of The Phillipines’ Michelin Guide as opening doors for local talent. “Generating confidence in our own cuisine is positive,” he said. Michelin can “inspire Filipino chefs to come back home to open restaurants and push things in the right direction.”
By the time the evening was over, the newest Michelin Guide, covering Manila and its environs as well as Cebu, placed 108 establishments in the spotlight. Of those, 25 received the Bib Gourmand distinction for noteworthy food at an affordable price; eight won a single coveted star; and Josh Boutwood’s Helm was the only restaurant in the country to win two Michelin stars. He thanked his English mother and Filipino father from Borocay, both restaurateurs and hoteliers, from the stage. “I was born into this industry,” he said. “It has been my absolute love to do what I do.”
One man walked away from the evening with three stars, albeit in different categories and for different restaurants. Chef Chele Gonzáles, the Spanish chef whose pedigree includes a turn at two-star Mugaritz in San Sebastián, was an early champion of applying fine dining precision to Filipino produce when he first came to the Philippines over a decade ago.
“It was fine luxury with local ingredients,” he said of an approach that was radical at the time. Now a generation of younger Filipino chefs are taking innovative looks at everything from seafood to foraged ingredients and rare strains of heirloom rice.
Chele took was awarded a Michelin Green Star and one Michelin Star
The Michelin Selected restaurants
Chef Chele took home one Michelin star and a green star recognising his sustainable work with local ingredients for Gallery by Chele, and an additional star for Asador Alfonso in Cavite, about two hours south of Manila. His Spanish restaurant, Cantabria, was also included in the guide. “I never expected that Michelin would come to the Philippines in my lifetime,” a humbled Chef Chele said.
“A star doesn’t necessarily change us or our approach,” said Chef Jordy of his recognition, “but it is great validation for our work at Toyo.”
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Chef Stephan of Metiz, selected by the guide, appreciates the attention but reminded Filipino chefs to avoid the temptation of formatting their menus just to please the Michelin inspectors. “A Filipino restaurant should remain Filipino,” he said.
Of course the guide doesn’t recognise only Filipino cuisine. From Chef Miko Calo’s French-inspired duck confit filled tacos at Taquería Franco to refined Thai cuisine at Benjarong in the Dusit Thani Manila, Michelin acknowledged the vibrant, cosmopolitan dining scene.
Bib Gourmand recipients
Three special awards were also handed out. The Young Chef Award went to 27-year old Don Patrick Baldosano of Linamnam, while the Service Award went to Erin Recto of Hapag. Both restaurants went on to win one star. The Exceptional Cocktails Award went to Benjamin Leal from Michelin selected restaurant Uma Nota.
“I feel hopeful that the guide will have a huge impact on the industry and tourism of the Philippines,” said RJ Ramos of Lampara, a newly minted Bib Gourmand restaurant. The arrival of a Michelin guide in a new destination always attracts chefs with new ideas. Chef Miko, who hails from Mindanao and worked with Joël Robuchon in Paris and Singapore, will soon be opening a new restaurant, the details of which have not yet been disclosed. It will be located in Newport Resorts in Manila, where she is currently hosting a pop-up called Coquette.
Chef Josh, whose Ember and The Test Kitchen also made the list, had the last word on the expectations created by Helm’s two Michelin stars. “I hope it has an impact on reservations,” he said deadpan. “I hope it does not have an impact on my mental health.”
Service Award winner, Hapag
Young Chef Award winner, Don Patrick Baldosano
Exceptional Cocktails Award winner, Benjamin Leal
Click here to see the list of winners for The Philippines’ Michelin Guide.
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The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
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Dining and Cooking