Lazy Bear – SF –

FOOD:
Really playful combinations and I appreciated the variety of proteins and additional ingredient treatment.

First course was a foraged herbal tea with local honey. Interesting way to do a palate cleanse.

Second was a whipped egg and maple emulsion / foam with a layer of hot sauce at bottom. Evolution was good, a little solidity would have helped the course I think. (Jaxon poured a little Bille, they affectionately call this one “sus boys”)

Third was a sourdough pastry with smoked clams and caviar. The starter is a 70 year starter from
One of their chefs, and this bite was savory incarnate.

Fourth was “dueling oysters” from hog island, one chilled with gooseberry and marigold, the other broiled with nardello glaçage and piquinho peppers. Then contrast of tart and cold with warm and piquant added to the complexity for sure.

Fifth was “Duck Box” with a theme of PB&J. Duck liver sando toasted in duck fat with grape gel, ants on a log with celery tuile and peanut miso, and a grape leaf stuffed with duck confit and raisins. The tuile was very interesting, adding a rigidity to the dish and the theme came through as interesting interplay of peanut butter and grape accents.

Sixth was mount lassen trout, served cured and with squash, tempura fried squash bosom, new bay seasoning and puree. Texturally phenomenal, and served with a trout bone broth and a hint of lemon.

Seventh was their bread and butter. Brown butter
Milk bread and sourdough esque butter made with a 13 year old culture starter. Bread was piping hot and butter was incredibly rich. I love bread all the time but as it was at EMP, this may has been my favorite course.

Eighth was fresh shelling beans with onion and alba truffle. They pour this one out of a custom can of beans and shave truffle on it in front of you. Fun serving process but as you can see doesn’t end up looking excellent on the plate.

Ninth was liberty duck with chanterelle mushrooms, persimmon, and carrot. Mixture of roasted and dry aged. Lots of umami on this one and the texture on the duck was great. A crispy skin could have elevated though. (This is when Jaxson blinded me. I guessed the right region but the vibrancy of the wine had me off by a decade. This one has aged with great potency. )

Tenth was wagyu from Miyazaki, a tendon chip “puff” Njuda, smoky tomato and Vella dry jack. Always melt in the mouth of course. Excellent touch of salt. (Then Jaxson hit me with the next blind. I had the right region and was within 5 years on the age but not the right bank here. )

Eleventh was passion fruit with anise hyssop,
Frozen yogurt, and a granola “puck” almost. Tart, tangy, and refreshing.

Twelfth, was a honey nut squash gelato type quenelle with pepitas, mushroom, and a caramel like matsutake. Savory, sweet, the caramel being warm, was a satisfying conclusion.

Last was a chocolate bon bon of dandelion brand chocolate with Valencia orange, a truffle made to inspire “pecan pie”, and a cardamom gummy bear. Favorite was the bon bon due to texture and the orange presence.

They also send you with “breakfast for tomorrow” which was a mini bottle of cold brew with slight sweet cream, and a small loaf of banana bread with fleur de sel. This was an amazing stash for my 4am travel the next day, and equally enjoyed in an airport as it may have been in a hotel.

WINE:
Jaxson, my somm for the evening was amiable, knowledgeable, and approachable. As a somm myself we got to discuss producers, storage, and he blinded me on a couple of wines which was very much appreciated.

SERVICE:
Early into service I felt a little “over watched”, not interrupted but a little self conscious about being watched on each bite. I probably wouldn’t have felt that way later into the night, or if not alone and thus not able to easily see the team circling.

It subsided as the restaurant filled up, and each one of the staff was kind and non invasive.

GM, Chase was friendly too and I felt the story of each dish was told well.