There’s a saying that “Paris is not France.” To understand the country’s true character, you need to get outside of the capital city’s arrondissements. Avalon Waterways’ “Bonjour Bordeaux: Chateaux, Wineries & Charming Villages” river cruise helps travelers do just that. With visits to towns and vineyards throughout the Bordeaux region, passengers get to experience mainstream French culture and society, as well as some of the best wines in the world.

Onboard Avalon Artistry II

On a sailing this summer onboard Avalon Artistry II — one of Avalon Waterways’ Suite Ships — my daughter and I were able to combine luxurious cruising with fascinating tours and activities throughout the region. The ship, refurbished earlier this year as part of a brand-wide fleet refresh, felt immaculate and brand new — from its guestrooms to its public and dining areas.

Artistry II features two full decks of Panorama Suites (52 in all), each measuring 200 square feet, plus 12 Deluxe Staterooms. We especially enjoyed our suite’s wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling panoramic window, which Avalon calls “river cruising’s only open-air balcony,” perfect for watching the French countryside drift by.

Our room also featured a comfortable desk/drawer combo, a small sitting nook — ideal for in-room meals or reading — and all of the other expected amenities, including dependable onboard Wi-Fi access. While there was an in-room television, only the French-language channels worked; we could, however, access the ship’s extensive library of movies. Our bathroom was bigger than we expected, with a large basin and a good-sized shower.

avalonsuiteSuites come with wall-to-wall windows that allow guests to watch the countryside drift by.
Credit: 2025 Avalon Waterways

The ship’s forward Panorama Lounge and aft Club Lounge never felt crowded, even during the happy hour daily briefing. Throughout the cruise, there were visits from local performers and guest lecturers (experts on the region’s World War II history and top sommeliers, for instance) that took place in the Panorama Lounge. But we also loved the simplicity of grabbing a complimentary cappuccino throughout the day, refilling our water bottles or playing a board game in the Club Lounge.

My daughter and I especially enjoyed the ship’s dining, which featured French regional specialties and classic dishes such as escargot, French onion soup, duck a l’orange, crepes and more. Of course, all meals are accompanied by carefully selected Bordeaux wines.

The ship’s top Sky Deck has a small Jacuzzi, a large chessboard and a putting green. Each evening after dinner, we would sit at one of the comfortable top-deck seating areas with a glass of local wine and watch the lights come on in the charming towns where our ship was docked.

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As much as we loved the ship’s hardware, however, it was the staff and service that really stood out most. Between the often-hilarious daily updates from Francisco, the Cruise Director, to our regular conversations about French life with the rest of the staff, we truly got to know Avalon’s onboard team and, more importantly, it felt like they really knew us.

Exploring Wine Country

In addition to the onboard staff, the tour guides on our excursions were knowledgeable, friendly and organized. Our itinerary included a stop at Chateau de la Brede, the historic home of 18th-century political philosopher Montesquieu; a scenic drive through the Medoc wine country, including the esteemed wine villages of Pauillac, Margaux, Saint-Estephe and Saint-Julien; and a walking tour and wine tasting in the charming town of Saint-Emilion.

The itinerary includes tours of historic country chateaux.The itinerary includes tours of historic country chateaux.
Credit: 2025 Kenneth Shapiro

We also had the opportunity to visit with a local wine expert in the small town of Blaye, who entertained the group with colorful stories about his life in French wine country. He even brought the tour group into his wife’s art studio. Other excursions included a pastry-making class (for an additional fee) at a historic chateau, and a visit to the seaside town of Arcachon, where we sampled the area’s famous oysters.

Of course, a highlight of the itinerary is time spent in the city of Bordeaux and its historic center, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On guided walks here, we learned about the history of pre- and post-revolutionary France, as well as what made the region’s wine so world-renowned.

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Travel advisors should note that this itinerary is ideal for clients drawn to wine, history and culture — especially those who prefer exploration over long sailing days. With short distances between ports, guests can disembark frequently to experience authentic French life up close. Every evening, and sometimes throughout the day, my daughter and I found ourselves walking around a different town, which felt like an ideal way to truly get a feel for life in the region.

Guests can sign up for an optional pastry cooking excursion.Guests can sign up for an optional pastry cooking excursion.
Credit: 2025 Kenneth Shapiro

One of our favorite days included time at a Sunday farmers market in Bordeaux that was literally steps away from where our ship was docked. We felt like locals as we strolled through the market sampling all the delicious offerings and soaking up the ambiance.

At the end of our weeklong cruise, we realized that there was still so much more of France (beyond Paris) we want to explore. We immediately started making plans for our next grande aventure.

Dining and Cooking