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When pizza night rolls around each week, you might be tempted to simply reach into your fridge and use whatever cheese packages are already open. This could lead to an exciting discovery about a flavor pairing you never knew existed. On the other hand, it could result in a disappointing pie where the cheese has a weird texture or there are too many competing flavors. We’ve taken some of the guesswork out of pizza night by speaking with a handful of experts about some of the most underrated cheeses you should consider for your pizza. They shed light on which cheeses work well together, how to select toppings, which sauces are ideal, and whether to use each variety as a melting or finishing cheese. A few of these cheese varieties are not easily sourced at standard grocery stores in the United States, so check for online vendors and nearby specialty shops in case you run into trouble finding them.

Our experts were Chef Ed Carew of See No Evil Pizza, award-winning Chef Tony Gemignani, Chef Tommy Brockert of LaSorted’s, Chef Bryan Donaldson of Nostrana, and Chef Carlo Mirarchi of Roberta’s and Foul Witch. Because they live and work in different areas of the country, these chefs are able to play with regional flavors and several distinct styles of pizza. As such, they have provided us with inspiration to make pies for months to come. Each chef encourages us to experiment at home while staying carefully attuned to each cheese’s individual nature. “Try the cheese you want to work with and put it in the driver’s seat,” Mirarchi advised. “Don’t try to force it into a recipe or idea you already have in mind.”

Piave Vecchio

Piave Vecchio is made exclusively in northeastern Italy, where it is protected by the DOP label (Denominazione di Origine Protetta — Protected Designation of Origin). This means that copycat cheeses are not allowed, so the quality of Piave Vecchio is more likely to be reliably delicious every time you purchase it. This hard cheese is made from the milk of cows living in the Alps, and it will lend your pizza a distinctly fresh flavor and aroma.

Let Piave Vecchio shine on its own without any other cheese, suggested Carlo Mirarchi. While the flavors of some cheeses change after melting, you don’t have to worry about this happening with Piave Vecchio. Without any distractions, the full spectrum of gentle to intense flavors will wash over your palate, treating you to buttery, fruity, and nutty flavors. Because Piave Vecchio is a decidedly hard cheese, you can easily grate it onto your pizza.

You don’t have to restrict yourself to the bare minimum of dough and cheese, however. If you are in the mood for toppings, opt for salumi (aka, Italian cured meats) or gourds, Mirarchi suggested. For instance, kabocha squash can be added to pizza for an autumnal twist. Just make sure not to let the highly acidic sauce mar the flavors, warned Mirarchi. Try incorporating a white sauce or pesto instead of a bold tomato sauce.

Ricotta di pecora




Mound of ricotta on brown paper with grater

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Ricotta is a soft cheese that might be destined for pancakes, lasagna, cheesecake, or, yes, even pizza. If you can source ricotta di pecora, the Italian name for ricotta made from sheep’s milk, you’ll be in for a unique treat. It may not be common knowledge in the United States, but ricotta does not always come from a cow. It can be made from the milk of other animals, too, including goats, sheep, and water buffalo. What all these variations have in common is their mode of preparation. Well, kind of. Traditionally, cheesemakers transformed extra whey into ricotta, but today, the process often starts with whole milk instead. Ricotta di pecora may be slightly difficult to find in a regular grocery store, so look for options to purchase it online or at specialty shops.

Carlo Mirarchi did not recommend combining ricotta di pecora with another cheese. Its variegated flavor profile can be better appreciated when there are fewer competing flavors. That said, Mirarchi suggested using a fruity olive oil alongside freshly ground black pepper as a base for this cheese. Ricotta di pecora can be used as a finishing cheese, shared Mirarchi, but some recipes melt it in the oven along with the rest of the pie.

Ricotta di bufala




Round of ricotta on plate with knife in background

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Ricotta made from buffalo milk tends to boast a creamier texture than its cow milk counterpart. This makes sense, given that buffalo milk has a higher fat and protein content. Compared to other cheeses, buffalo milk ricotta leans toward the sweeter end of the spectrum. That’s why it has the potential to be an impressive and memorable topping for your next pizza. Bryan Donaldson suggested that for a Turkish or Mediterranean-themed meal, you could craft a meatball pizza using your choice of beef, chicken, or lamb. Topped with ricotta di bufala, you would have quite the array of textures, flavors, and aromas.

Let ricotta di bufala fly solo, Donaldson recommended; it doesn’t need the help of any other cheese to meet its full potential. If you do want to reach for another cheese variety, he suggested provolone. No need to get fancy with the sauce, either: A tomato base will work just fine. As for toppings, red onions, olives, and oregano are all great choices.

You can dollop ricotta di bufala onto your pizza before sticking it in the oven. “At Nostrana,” Donaldson shared, “we fire the pizza with the cheese on top of all ingredients, and the harmony between the melted/warmed cheese makes the pizza sing.”

Provolone




Sliced wedge of provolone on wooden cutting board with sea in background

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“The little bit of funk” in provolone can help amplify the flavors of a pizza tremendously, said Tommy Brockert. That is why the cheese is frequently used when crafting Ohio-style pizza. This pie is traditionally cut into square slices. Its crust is thin, its sauce is sweet, and its toppings take up as much real estate as possible. But without the provolone, which provides a slightly smoky flavor, this pizza might not have gained as much popularity. Of course, provolone can be applied to other pizza varieties, too.

Wild mushrooms, shaved truffles, and arugula are a handful of Tony Gemignani’s favorite produce items to pair with provolone, while smoked pancetta is his choice of meat. If you like spaghetti alla Nerano, zucchini might be what you want, shared Brockert. As for additional cheeses, Gemignani noted that burrata can work wonders, while Brockert recommended roping in parmesan and mozzarella. Coming back to that Ohio-style pizza, mozzarella often makes a dynamic duo alongside provolone, too.

Feel free to reach for your favorite sauce when making a provolone pizza because it will probably turn out splendidly. Gemignani recommended sauces like vodka cream, tomato sauce, pesto, Alfredo, and ranch, while Brockert claimed that “provolone with either olive oil or tomato sauce stays undefeated.” You can slice provolone into rounds or grate it onto your pizza. Finally, Gemignani shared that provolone can function as either a melting cheese or a finishing cheese, so experiment and see what you like best.

Raschera




Stacks of raschera at market

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Raschera is another Italian cheese protected by the DOP standard, and it is at least 500 years old. This semi-soft cheese made from cow’s milk hails from Italy’s Piedmont region, where its namesake lake lies nestled in the Alps. Raschera’s flavor is sometimes described as intense, with hints of spice and salt. If you have ever had Muenster cheese, the taste of Raschera falls along the same lines. This cheese is typically aged for a few months, but the Raschera d’Alpeggio variety is aged for six months. The latter offers a grassier flavor and is produced using the milk of cows that graze a minimum of 2,952 feet above sea level. Both varieties can be difficult to find at grocery stores in the United States, so call ahead and scope out your options online.

Pair Raschera with a low-moisture cheese like Pecorino Romano, suggested Bryan Donaldson. This will help ensure an ideal texture once the cheese has melted. Donaldson explained that you don’t necessarily need to add fruits, vegetables, or even a sauce to pizza made with Raschera. Keeping it simple allows your focus to remain entirely on the cheese itself. Because this is an elastic cheese, you can simply grate a block of Raschera over your pie and enjoy. Even so, summer squash, red onion, chives, pears, lemon, and candied pecans are all potential additions, said Donaldson.

Blue cheese




Large wedge of gorgonzola

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Blue cheese is one of the only exceptions to the rule that you shouldn’t eat moldy food. Not only that, but cheesemongers have ensured that there is no shortage of variety when it comes to blue cheese, keeping us well supplied with a wide range of flavors. Gorgonzola, for instance, is an aged Italian cheese made from cow’s milk that can be sweet or sharp. Meanwhile, Rogue Creamery’s Smokey Blue cheese is cold-smoked over hazelnut shells, which, according to the website, lends the cheese a complex aroma reminiscent of vanilla, candied bacon, and bread pudding. Its flavor is fruity and nutty, yet a tad bit spicy. Bryan Donaldson recommended crumbling both these varieties of blue cheese onto a pizza. It’s best to do so after the pizza has finished baking to protect the cheese’s textural integrity.

If you feel intimidated by blue cheese, don’t write it off just yet. “It is better to add a less punchy cheese like provolone or Parmigiano to mellow [blue cheese] out,” Donaldson advised. You can even pair blue cheese with sweet fruits. Gorgonzola is a great match for blueberries, and at Nostrana, the two team up in a pie alongside hot honey, provolone, and Parmigiano. Finally, cross making a sauce off your list of things to do; a blue cheese pizza needs only a drizzle of olive oil, if anything, to impress your palate, Donaldson explained.

Goat cheese




Sliced log of goat cheese with sprigs of thyme on wooden cutting board

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Once you’ve tried a goat cheese and caramelized onion pizza, there’s no going back. You’ll start experimenting with other toppings like arugula, figs, hot honey, and roasted squash, and you’ll be amazed at how much they complement the tangy notes of goat cheese. To make matters more interesting, you needn’t limit yourself to plain goat cheese. Varieties flavored with orange zest, rosemary, and black pepper can all make for an interesting pie.

Goat cheese is best used as a finishing cheese, said Tony Gemignani. In other words, it doesn’t need to melt for its flavors and textures to improve, so you can add it onto your pizza after it comes out of the oven. Gemignani breaks up goat cheese into dime-sized pieces for an ideal mouthfeel.

When it comes to picking a sauce, Gemignani noted, you might make it a white pizza and opt for none at all. On the other hand, you can try pairing goat cheese with pesto. After all, sweet herbs like basil have a natural affinity for this tart cheese. See for yourself in our socca “pizza” with fresh chickpea pesto recipe: it features chervil leaves, which taste like a mashup of parsley and tarragon and contain traces of licorice.

Feta




Feta on cutting board with tomatoes and thyme

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It’s always satisfying to break off a chunk of feta and crumble it into a salad, a quiche, or pasta salad. As Tony Gemignani shared, feta is the perfect topping for pizza, too. “Most home pizza makers tend to think that all cheeses have to be melted, which is incorrect,” Gemignani stated. “Cheeses sometimes shine the brightest when they are added as a finishing touch on a pizza after the bake.” So after the kitchen timer rings, simply pull your pie out of the oven and toss on a handful of feta, where its salty, tangy flavors will steal the show.

Feta is a Greek cheese that is made using sheep’s milk, perhaps with a little goat’s milk thrown into the mix as well. It’s creamy and bold, so you should prioritize using toppings with similarly vibrant flavors. Mediterranean olives are a delightful topping to add to feta pizza, said Gemignani. Vegetables like tomatoes, spinach, bell peppers, and zucchini are likewise ideal. Specifically, Gemignani recommended reaching for sun-dried tomatoes, though fresh will also work, depending on the textural profile you desire.

Feta is another one of those cheeses that might save you time, money, and effort while making pizza because you don’t necessarily need to pair it with a sauce, Gemignani shared. As was the case with goat cheese, though, pesto is a great companion to feta if you want to incorporate another creamy texture into your pie.

Cheddar




Pieces of cheddar on plate with produce in background

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You may ordinarily reach for cheddar when making a grilled cheese sandwich, quiche, or omelet. However, Tony Gemignani pointed out that cheddar can be used to make a Detroit-style pizza, too. After all, Wisconsin brick cheese is a classic topping for this kind of pie, and it shares many similarities with cheddar. Try it for yourself with our Detroit-style deep dish pizza recipe.

Cheddar should be grated onto pizza, Gemignani shared, but after that, you have myriad options for crafting the pizza of your dreams. Just take the sheer number of sauces that taste superb alongside cheddar: Gemignani suggested varieties as distinct as tomato sauce and pesto, plus creamy sauces like Alfredo and vodka cream. White cheddar plays nicely with a wide range of toppings, too, such as mushrooms and bell peppers. Fruits like figs and apples, as well as tangy toppings like pickles, will also work well.

Even at a standard grocery store, you will likely have several varieties of cheddar from which to choose. Cheddar is usually categorized as mild, medium, sharp, or extra sharp, depending on how long it has been aged. To ensure the best melt, opt for younger cheddar varieties with more moisture, perhaps in conjunction with a classic pizza cheese like mozzarella. If you want to capitalize on the sharper flavors of an aged cheddar, however, you can still do so: Just use a lower ratio of cheddar to mozzarella.

Caciocavallo




Caciocavallo lined up at market

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Last but not least, Chef Ed Carew recommended adding caciocavallo to pizza. This hard cheese is made from cow’s milk and ranges from mild to sharp in flavor. It is a kind of stretched cheese that must be bathed in brine and then aged for well over a month before it is finally ready to be consumed. Caciocavallo is one of the Italian cheeses that ought to be on your bucket list, and while it might be easiest to buy online, it can occasionally be found stateside in select grocery stores or specialty cheese shops.

Caciocavallo is a dry cheese, Carew told us, and if you peek into the oven while your pizza is baking, you can watch in real time how nicely the cheese melts and takes on a richer hue. You can slice or grate this cheese on top of your pizza before baking it, depending on how robust you want its flavor to be.

Carew said that while caciocavallo is tasty when added to Italian-inspired pizzas, you shouldn’t limit yourself to just one cuisine with this unique cheese. Aside from tomato sauce, Carew recommended pairing caciocavallo with cream-based sauces such as a light béchamel or a roasted garlic cream. Meanwhile, a few of his specific suggestions for toppings included roasted mushrooms, roasted squash, and caramelized onions. He also noted that a sprinkling of thyme or sage would be splendid. As for combining caciocavallo with other cheeses, Carew said that it is “distinct yet not overpowering, so it works beautifully on its own. That said, it can also play well with others if you’re building layers of flavor.”


Dining and Cooking