I fell in love with Rome as a study abroad student in 2009 and have visited many times since, developing my go-to favorite spots for bucatini all’amatriciana, pizza al taglio, gelato, and more. At this point, I could practically lead a tour of my Roman favorites blindfolded, but sometimes you need an excuse to break from tradition and try something new.
When my role as Travel + Leisure’s senior editorial director and resident Italophile called for a full day of spontaneous eating around Rome based on off-the-cuff recommendations for our Word of Mouth video series, I couldn’t book a flight fast enough. Thanks to some local culinary masterminds, I found new favorite spots to dream about until I’m back again. But first, I’m sharing them all with you—because spreading joy through food is the Roman way.
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Bowls of pasta Amatriciana served in a restaurant in Rome, Italy.Luna by Faro
The day kicked off with a new spin on the Roman breakfast as I knew it. Typically, I’d stand at the counter of a bustling bar, elbow to elbow with fellow patrons while downing a cappuccino or double espresso and maybe snacking on a quick cornetto (Italy’s answer to the croissant). Not at Luna by Faro. When owner Dafne Natale-Spadavecchia suggested I try the V60—a revered third-wave coffee pour-over method—I had to give it a go. The coffee beans come from Aliena, another project of hers, and are sourced from across the globe and roasted right in Rome. We took a seat in the cafe’s courtyard and also enjoyed a selection of bites from Luna’s brunch menu, including a chocolate version of the maritozzo, a Roman pastry filled with whipped cream; focaccia; eggs benedict; and my personal favorite, the Intergalactic Toast with Umbrian ham and fresh mozzarella. Eventually, our conversation turned to pizza, as all good chats in Italy do, leading me to my next stop: Casa Manco.
Casa Manco
As soon as I stepped into Testaccio Market, I could tell my newest Roman friend sent me to the right place. It wasn’t just the colorful array of Roman-style pizzas on display at Casa Manco (although that definitely helped); it was the energy and excitement coming from both sides of the counter. The line comprised a mix of locals and visitors, including tourists who made the journey back after years of dreaming about their first slice. This is a family business, run by husband and wife Andrea Salabè and Paola Manco, and Salabè was more than happy to keep the banter with patrons going strong while Manco sat and shared a few slices with me. We started with a classic margherita, which we agreed is always the best way to judge a pizzeria. (Spoiler: Casa Manco passed the test with flying colors.) Then we dug into more unique toppings like pears, grapes, guanciale, and local cheeses. I could’ve stayed and sampled more pizza al taglio for hours, but I had to save room for dinner. Manco had a personal connection to Michelin-starred Glass Hostaria: her daughter, also a chef, used to work there. Who was I to argue? I called an Uber straight to Trastevere.
Glass Hostaria
When I asked chef Cristina Bowerman how locals reacted when she first brought her innovative cooking style to Glass Hostaria in the traditional Trastevere neighborhood of Rome, she didn’t mince words: “They hated me!” she said. Now, 20 years later, she has a Michelin star. Originally from Puglia, Bowerman is unafraid to introduce global flavors into her Italian cooking, often drawing upon Asian influences. She is also a leader of Italy’s food sustainability movement. Glass is best experienced through its six-course tasting menu, but even if you choose to go a la carte, do not miss the “liquid ravioli.” Bowerman loves to switch up her menu, but these have become a staple. The tiny ravioli are filled with a fondue of Parmigiano Reggiano that’s aged for 60 months and explodes in your mouth—made all the more unforgettable with rich Italian butter and fresh truffle. Next, I asked Bowerman for a gelato recommendation to round out my day, and when she chose Otaleg, the bold culinary experimentation continued.
Otaleg
Otaleg’s Marco Radicioni lives and breathes gelato. In fact, he’s known for getting so excited about it, he breaks out in dance. Purists will be able to find the classics here (the pistachio was so good I had it twice), but it’s the adventurous eaters who will truly thrive. The menu at Otaleg is constantly evolving, as Radicioni experiments with new combinations in his gelato laboratory, often concocting head-turning flavors based on his favorite savory dishes. This can result in ingredients like chicken, carrot, or gorgonzola. Bowerman mentioned she favors the berry sorbets, bursting with ripe fruit. Otaleg is gelato spelled backwards, but Radicioni gets certain things straight, and that is, above all else, using fresh, natural ingredients.
Orient Express La Minerva
My trip dedicated to trying new-to-me places in Rome wouldn’t have been complete without a new hotel. Orient Express La Minerva—the first hotel from the iconic brand known for its luxury trains—was the 2025 opening I was most excited to check out. The hotel is steps from the Pantheon, putting it in my favorite area for exploring the city by foot. A stay at the elegant property meant mornings with a harpist playing through breakfast service and evenings marked by glorious rooftop sunset views at Gigi Rigolatto Roma, the latest outpost of the global dining concept dedicated to modern Italian glamour.
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