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Celebrity chef and writer Anthony Bourdain traveled around the world seeking great food and better stories. Of all the places he visited, he seemed to have a particular fondness for Rome, where he called one Roman pasta dish “the greatest in the history of the world.” In a 2016 episode of “Parts Unknown,” Bourdain enjoyed a solo meal at Osteria dal 1931 in the Monteverde neighborhood, where he was entranced by the simple yet incredible appetizer: carciofi alla Romana.
In the episode, Bourdain is quickly presented with carciofi alla Romana, which translates to “Roman-style artichokes.” Essentially, these are artichoke hearts braised in white wine, olive oil, and herbs until they become meltingly tender. Paired with hand-sliced prosciutto, Bourdain dives right in, and, after a few bites, he exclaims, “I love this place. I want to die here already — and I might yet.”
Normally, the artichokes are served on their own, but the pairing with the prosciutto is what really takes this dish to the next level. According to Bourdain, the salty meatiness of the cured ham was a beautiful juxtaposition against the soft, supple artichoke hearts, while the herbs and acidity from the wine helped to cut through the prosciutto.
The simplicity of Italian food makes it so desirable
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There is a difference between Roman and American artichokes, and the Italians have been blessed with the superior and more tender version of the two. While carciofi alla romana is a simple dish in appearance, it does require a lot of labor and time to make. Each artichoke must be carefully trimmed by hand to harvest the tender heart within, yet keep the stem intact, a process that Anthony Bourdain would have appreciated after his many years of cooking.
The trimmed artichokes are then usually rubbed with lemon and soaked in lemon water to prevent discoloration before being placed stem side up in a large pot. Then, it is covered with oil and water or wine, or a mixture of all three, plus herbs and aromatics like garlic. The artichokes are then braised and steamed in the covered pot until meltingly tender.
Like a lot of traditional Italian cooking, the wow factor doesn’t come from complicated techniques or flashy gimmicks but rather from simple ingredients that have been expertly handled and prepared with centuries of knowledge and traditions. While Osteria dal 1931, which Bourdain practically worshipped, does still offer an artichoke antipasto on the current menu, unfortunately it’s not the same item that Bourdain enjoyed. Rather, it’s “carciofi alla Giudia,” a Roman-Jewish style deep-fried artichoke. Nevertheless, the ambiance and quality of the food remain the same.
Dining and Cooking