Tradition holds that the four essential pastas of Rome, Italy, are Amatriciana, Cacio e Pepe, Carbonara, and Gricia. The primary macaroni shape is usually spaghetti, but rigatoni, bucatini, or mezze maniche (half rigatoni) also work well and are often used, depending, of course, on the neighborhood or the trattoria, sometimes both.

Three of the pasta dishes are made with guanciale, the delicious cured pig jowl that especially enlivens Carbonara, Amatriciana, and Gricia. Carbonara adds a sauce composed of raw egg, pecorino romano cheese, and freshly ground black pepper. Gricia is a combination of pasta, guanciale, pepper, and pecorino romano. Amatriciana adds tomatoes. Cacio e Pepe is a meatless treasure, bringing together a simple sauce of pecorino romano and black pepper.

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Michael Calleri reviews movies for the Niagara Gazette and the Lockport Union-Sun & Journal and also contributes features about the arts, food, and culture.

Dining and Cooking