Vineyards at Podere Forte, Castiglione d’Orcia, Tuscany
Photo courtesy Podere Forte
Vintage ratings, especially for the more full-bodied red wines, are helpful to a certain point. These ratings are generalizations of a specific region or territory in any given year; this on the surface level is helpful, but one has to take into account that these ratings often favor the years that enjoyed weather that was beneficial for wines that had the potential to age for a substantial number of years.
But what about successful years that resulted in wines that were not powerful, and not meant to age for 15-20 years or more? Does that mean the vintage was not successful? I certainly don’t think so, if only for the reason that so-called lighter wines are more approachable at an early age, sometimes upon release, but often within their first three to seven years; while the highly rated “big reds” that get the top ratings are still not showing their finest qualities at that stage.
Consider Italy for example. Recent vintages such as 2019 and 2021 – especially for Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello, Amarone, Taurasi and a few other famous reds – were considered outstanding; many examples from these two years are truly outstanding and will peak after another 10-15 years or longer. But what about other vintages as of late? Does the fact that they are not considered powerful or with the potential for many years of cellaring mean that they are not worth considering? More often that not, my answer to this question is no.
This is especially true for the 2018 vintage throughout most of Italy. There were some problems with rain in certain regions and few producers thought this would be a special vintage. Yet when all was said and done, the wines turned out beautifully, especially as far as very good acidity, impressive structure and typicity.
I recall tasting dozens of top reds from the 2018 vintage in Italy, and was impressed with how good these wines really were – and still are. Here are thoughts from two producers – one from Tuscany, one from Veneto – about the 2018 vintage and how their wines turned out.
Pasquale Forte, proprietor Podere Forte, Tuscany – “The 2018 vintage in Podere Forte started with a mild winter, a slightly earlier bud break for warm March and April. Some good rains in spring were helpful to storage water reserve for the summer. September was mild and sunny with great thermal excursion allowing a complete aromatic and polyphenolic ripening. The last clusters were harvested the 18th of October. 2018 wines combine a firm structure with great freshness and deep complexity.”
Nadia Zenato, owner Zenato, Valpolicella district, Veneto – “The 2018 vintage in Valpolicella was characterized by a complex and uneven weather pattern, which required meticulous management. Abundant spring rains and a summer with fluctuating temperatures posed major challenges, but manual harvesting, carried out with extreme selection of the bunches, allowed the full potential of the indigenous varieties to be exploited. The long drying of the grapes, the stylistic heart of the Amarone Riserva, has preserved integrity and aromatic concentration, offering wines of rare elegance.
“The 2018 Amarone Riserva stands out for its balanced ripeness, silky and well-integrated tannins, lively acidity and a less opulent but deeply expressive structure.
Thanks to the fineness of its tannic texture and the stability of its phenolic compounds, the Riserva 2018 has great aging potential: it can evolve harmoniously for at least twenty years if stored under optimal conditions.”
Here are my tasting notes on these wines, along with others from Tuscany and Piedmont:
Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva “Sergio Zenato” 2018 – A blend of Corvina (80%), Rondinella (10%), Croatina (5%) and Oseleta (5%); aged in large barrels for two years and then for two years in bottles before release. Bright, medium deep ruby red; aromas of Queen Anne cherries, current, strawberry, lavender and chocolate-covered cherries -delightful! Full-bodied (17% alcohol), with impressive ripeness, very good acidity, rich tannins and outstanding persistence. This is still a very young wine; I expect this to be in excellent condition for at least another 12-15 years, and I wouldn’t be surprised to see this wine in fine shape in another 20 years. (94)
Podere Forte Guardavigna “Orniello” 2018 (IGT Toscana) – 100% Cabernet Franc; aged in French oak casks and barriques for 18-20 months. Bright, medium deep ruby red; aromas of morel cherry, strawberry, and a hint of pink peppercorn. Medium-full, this has excellent freshness, medium-full tannins that are well balanced and impressive freshness. The oak notes are a bit overdone, and the finish is not as lengthy as one would like, but this is a well-made wine with a nice sense of varietal purity and place. Approachable now; peak in six to nine years. (92)
Other Tuscan reds:
Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di S. Niccolò 2018 (Toscana IGT) – From a highly respected Chianti Classico producer comes this blend of 85% Sangioveto and 15% Malvasia Nera; matured in new and one-year French barriques. Medium-deep garnet; aromas of tobacco seed, currant, dried cherry and a hint of leather. Medium-full, this has matured beautifully, as there is a strong core of Sangiovese fruit, very good acidity, nicely styled wood notes and a complex finish with notes of tar, tobacco and dried tomato. Enjoy this now and over the next two to four years. (93)
Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino 2018 – Aromas of currant, dried strawberry and dried brown herbs. Medium-full, there is very good acidity along with subdued wood notes and medium-full, well-balanced tannins and very good persistence. Offering very good typicity in a restrained manner, this will drink well for another six to ten years. (91)
Livio Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino 2018 – Bright, medium deep garnet; aromas of morel and maraschino cherry, red plum, red poppies and a hint of juniper. Medium-full, there is impressive concentration, very good acidity, very well-integrated wood and medium-full tannins that are quite elegant. There is beautiful typicity and varietal purity and I love the understated quality and charm of this wine. Beautiful now, this will drink well for another 8-12 years. (93)
2018 reds from Piedmont:
Luigi Vico Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2018 – Aromas of morel cherry, thyme and a hint of persimmon. Medium-full on the plate; excellent typicity. Beautifully balanced, very good acidity, medium weight tannins, very good persistence. The finish offers appealing brown spice notes. Enjoyable now and over the next 12-15 years. (92)
Castello di Neive Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2018 – Medium deep garnet; aromas of dried cherry, dried orange peel, tobacco and a hint of balsamic. Medium-full, with very good acidity and persistence, subdued wood notes, medium-weight, beautifully balanced tannins and notable harmony. There is excellent typicity and a nice sense of finesse. This could still use a year or two to round out and display it best characters. Peak in five to eight years. (93)
Diego Conterno Barolo Le Coste di Monforte 2018 -Matured in grandi botti and cement tanks. Medium-deep, youthful garnet; aromas of morel cherry, orange peel, tobacco and coffee. Medium-full, with beautiful varietal character, subdued wood notes, very good acidity and impressive persistence; the finish displays appealing notes of oregano and cumin. Beautifully balanced, there is excellent complexity along with Barolo terroir; this is a notable for its elegant traditional style. Peak in 10-12 years. (92)
Piero Busso Barbaresco Albesani Vigna Borgese 2018 – From the Borgese vineyard in the Albesani MGA in Neive at 270 meters above sea level; matured in grandi botti. Bright, medium garnet; aromas of morel cherry, orange peel, talc powder, currant and geranium. Medium-full, with very good ripeness, retrained wood notes, pinpoint acidity, medium-weight, graceful tannins and impressive persistence; the finish offers appealing, and delicate red and brown spice notes (oregano, cumin). Beautiful varietal character and sense of place; a lovely traditionally styled Barbaresco from a master producer. Appealing now, better in 2-3 years; peak in 10-12 years, thanks to its outstanding harmony. (94)
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