Photo by Tony Valainis.
THE DAYS when dinner out included complimentary bread and a house salad may have gone the way of the dessert cart. But a local restaurateur with his heart in the restaurants of yore is trying to make dining affordable again, one side of linguine at a time.
Bill Pritt, whose FortyFive Degrees restaurant and Metro nightclub are popular Mass Ave stops, has branched out with Harrison’s, a mashup of Italian American and steakhouse cuisines. It’s all housed in the onetime Regions Bank on Delaware Street, just blocks from pricier spots he wants to diverge from. He even left the drive-thru largely intact as a spacious, comfy patio, and diners can request a table in the former bank’s vault.
Design touches from Demerly Architects and graphic artist Matthew Mutchmore lend contemporary appeal to the somewhat retro concept. Vintage photos of its namesake, homegrown U.S. president Benjamin Harrison, were chosen to add “a little flavor of the whimsical,” Pritt says. “Opening a new restaurant is always a learning curve, but I do my best at fixing the places I’ve opened and making them great.”
Harrison’s menu is inspired by North Keystone restaurant Marco’s, beloved for its homey pasta recipes and “cheap meat” night. To push the offerings, Pritt enlisted FortyFive Degrees kitchen manager Edy Merida, Gordon Foods Service corporate chef Blythe Beck, and former H2O Sushi co-owner Eli Anderson, who helped ensure the menu isn’t too lost in the past. Their skill is evident in starters like crisp, light calamari with a tangy charred lemon tartar sauce. A brisket ravioli is nicely savory, though its sauce should be scrapped for something more distinct. Salads are fresh, especially the Caesar and a house salad (choose the vinaigrette-like bleu cheese dressing). A demi baguette is welcome at the table, though the recommendation to douse a saucer of olive oil with balsamic should be ceded to the ’90s.
Among entrees, the Chicken a la Marco is overloaded with ham, cheese, and mustard cream sauce, while a slightly pasta-heavy version of lasagna is a likely treat to those who used to eat at the long-shuttered restaurant. It’s Harrison’s originals that stand apart, especially an arresting double-boned pork chop with a subtle brown sugar crust and apple-bourbon reduction. Steamed broccoli is an afterthought garnish, though, and diners should instead head for a generous platter of Brussels sprouts perfectly flash fried and gently dressed in honey-balsamic glaze, almonds, and parmesan. Tenderloin steak bites come skillfully seared with a complex red wine–shallot sauce over creamy mashed potatoes, and grilled salmon is flaky and seasoned just right. (A side of “Indiana Gold Corn,” by contrast, appeared suspiciously canned and uninspiring.)
Lunch allows Pritt’s staff to offer more daring fare such as an Italian burger with half–Italian sausage topped with shaved pastrami and herbaceous aioli. Panini, whether loaded with meats or roasted veggies, impress equally, though the bread could be heartier. Golden, aromatic truffle fries are worth the upgrade.
Photo by Tony Valainis.
Desserts, which Pritt calls a “work in progress,” include a structured tiramisu and pistachio gelato that could stand a lighter crust of pistachios and less whipped cream. An individual European Cheesecake appeared microwaved, with both juicy dark cherries and one Technicolor maraschino. Among fruitier, sweeter bar pours, a bracingly dry Vesper with gin, vodka, and Lillet Blanc is a good choice, as is the house Benjamin, an old fashioned with Bulleit bourbon.
At $21.95, Pritt’s version of the Marco’s Tuesday meat night (6-ounce filet, salad, side) may not be the bargain it once was, nor is a $26 basic chicken parmesan. But portions are generous and parking is plentiful, both reasons to give Harrison’s a try. A supporter of Indy’s LGBTQ+ business community, Pritt now owns spots throughout the annual Pride parade route. “If we know anything, it’s how to pack people in,” Pritt says. It’s no doubt he’ll be doing that on Delaware, too.
555 N. Delaware St.
317-826-7361
Hours
Mon–Sun
11 a.m.–10 p.m.
Vibe
Casual Italian
Tasting Notes
Old school Italian American red sauce classics with steakhouse touches, salads, lunch panini, well-poured drinks, and dolled-up brunch dishes
Neighborhood
Downtown
Must-Order
Crispy, tender fried calamari with charred lemon tartar sauce; fried honey-glazed Brussels sprouts with almonds and parmesan; a double-boned pork chop with a light bourbon-apple reduction; and succulent steak bites with a red wine shallot sauce and creamy mashed potatoes
Dining and Cooking