Rome is famously chaotic, and a fascinating mix of very old-meets-very-new: you’ll find wifi hotspots at ancient monuments, over 900 churches and nearly as many electric Bird scooters, and an Apple store in the historic Palazzo Marignoli, frescos intact. The Roman food scene reflects this same tangle of ancient and modern.
Romans, and Italians more generally, are very particular about how they eat. Breakfast is fast and sweet and taken at the bar of a cafe. Lunch really can be the long, multi-course feast that you’ve seen in the movies, especially on weekends, and dinner is late by US standards, with many places not even opening until 8pm.
When dining in Rome, here are a few rules to follow: Try at least one (or all) of the renowned pasta dishes—cacio e pepe, gricia, carbonara, and amatriciana. Don’t leave without sampling supplì, fried baccalà, pizza, and other iconic foods. Allocate one breakfast for a maritozzo and other pastries. And treat yourself to gelato as often as possible.

Dining and Cooking