The French scene in Northwest D.C. continues to have a moment this fall. Bonne Vie Café & Bistro quietly opened last month on U Street, taking over the two-story space previously occupied by Baby Shank (1604 U Street NW).
Bonne Vie is billed as a casual sister of downtown’s Le DeSales. The opening comes at the heels of the refined, wine-focused Maison Bar a Vins, which debuted in September one neighborhood over in Adams Morgan.
Bonne Vie’s chic upstairs dining room is framed with vintage French prints. Bonne Vie
Bonne Vie eschews chic to create a corner destination dedicated to traditional French bistro dishes. The duo that opened Le DeSales — owner Aziz Safi and concept designer Raphael Francois — teamed up again, this time, nearly a decade later. Instead of the brasserie style of that larger and more formal restaurant, Bonne Vie is more relaxed. That was the goal of Francois, who aimed to host something more homey.
“It is cozy, casual, and rooted in comfort, keeping things approachable and genuine,” says Francois.
The menu centers around the classic bistro prix fixe menu ($45). “Simple pleasures,” he notes. “Generous and relaxed.”
Safi demurred when discussing any signature dish; instead, he pointed to the three-course feature as the restaurant’s anchor, which includes a starter (“les entrees”), main (“les plats principaux”), dessert (“les doucers”), and one big draw: unlimited shoestring fries. The meal also include a shared green salad for the table.
“My thought was for locals and anyone who wants to come often and not think about the bill. It’s comfort food, priced like you’re not being taken for a ride. That’s the whole point,” added Francois. Menu items can also be ordered a la carte.
Bonne Vie slides into the space formerly occupied by Baby Shank. Bonne Vie
Starters include tarte flambee, a grilled flatbread generously topped with onion, anchovy, olive, and burrata. Other options include pate de campagne, and burrata with a slick of olive oil and a touch of chutney for sweetness.
As for the mains, the tight handful of items include a half chicken with mustard, fish amandine in brown butter under a chive shower, skirt steak, white wine moules, and a “hamburger double.”
Desserts feature chocolate mousse, apple tart, and profiteroles. In the spring, the chef will change up the menu to reflect a changing season.
Francois also highly encourages diners to append the other classic element of a French bistro to meals: wine. Half-liter ($18) and liter ($32) specialty carafes are available to pair only with the prix-fixe.
Otherwise, various French, other European, and New World wines are available by the glass and bottle; this being a French restaurant, there’s also Champagne.
Bonne Vie serves wines by the glass and bottle. Bonne Vie
And this being D.C., an espresso martini tops the cocktail list, along with spritzes and a lively French 75; boozier options include a Boulevardier and martini. Local mixologist vet Camilo Poveda, drafted from Seven Reasons and Jane Jane, runs the bar.
Bonne Vie has also kicked off a happy hour menu, with cocktail specials and a short list of small plates, finger food, and of course, fries.
Bonne Vie’s colorful cocktails. Bonne Vie
When designing the restaurant, Francois notes that the space had undergone a very recent renovation. “The restaurant was already well-equipped, so the goal wasn’t to tear everything down, but to add warmth and personality to the existing structure,” he says. Vintage fixtures, old photographs, rich tones, and soft lighting add to a “lived-in” transformation that’s “part Parisian bistro, part neighborhood pub.” Walls are layered in Parisian art and artifacts, century-old Limoges plates and vintage knives are used during service. Still Bonne Vie aims to be unfussy and uncomplicated.
The first-floor dining room is the heart of the action, while the upstairs can be used for events, coffee, or drinks; its rooftop overlooking U Street begs for happy hour use.
A sketch of the historic flatiron building Bonne Vie occupies appears on the menu and postcards. Bonne Vie
Moving forward, Bonne Vie will open during the day to fill out the cafe portion of its name. See: various types of savory and sweet croissants (per seasonality, and always a chocolate option), baguettes, other baked goods, sandwiches and salads, and a coffee bar. Weekend brunch, a beloved D.C. staple, is already being offered; “locals were hungry for brunch as soon as Baby Shank closed,” says Francois.
Bonne Vie will sling croissants and coffee in the morning. Bonne Vie
Dining and Cooking