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With their hard-to-pronounce labels and indecipherable grapes, it’s easy to skip past Greek wines on the shelf at your local wine shop. However, if you choose to move beyond these mere details, you’ll be rewarded with a world of wines and one-of-a-kind grape varieties you’ll only ever see coming from Greece. With more than 300 indigenous grapes and dozens of regional appellations across the Greek mainland and islands, there’s no shortage of wines to try. Naturally, with such regional specificity in the varieties and wine styles, and limited export abroad, it’s hard for the average consumer to get a solid grasp of what Greece has to offer.
Nevertheless, as a few select grape varieties gain traction and the value of Greek wines becomes more broadly recognized, the country’s role in the international wine landscape becomes increasingly solidified. And with good reason; Ancient Greek culture and viticultural tradition are at the heart of wine’s longstanding history. Indeed, historic vineyards that have survived natural and human interventions continue to be cultivated, blending the old with the new.
Combining my experience as a Certified Specialist of Wine with some insider knowledge I picked up on a recent trip to Greece, I’ve put together a list of Greek varieties and wines to give you a solid foundation. Whether your Greek wine journey has yet to begin or you’ve only just started dabbling in the country’s viticultural offerings, these Greek wines will expand your palate.
Assyrtiko
Assyrtiko might just be the buzziest Greek grape at the moment, and probably the easiest one to source. The white variety originates from the island of Santorini, and arguably its best expressions come from this volcanic terroir. Nevertheless, it has expanded to mainland Greece as well as other islands. Depending on the origin, assyrtiko spans a range of styles, from concentrated, crisp, and mineral expressions (typical of Santorini) to rounder and fruitier wines, with plenty of acidity that makes it a great match for food.
The fresher styles are fermented in stainless steel to maintain a leaner profile, whereas oak or clay vessels are used in other variations, playing up the texture. Additionally, assyrtiko grapes are sometimes sun-dried to make a rich, sweet wine. Overall, it has the capacity to age quite well, evolving with complex aromas and a honeyed, yet no less mineral-rich, character.
Although you’ll find assyrtiko produced around the country, to truly experience the grape in all its splendor, a bottle from Santorini is in order. Try Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment, made with mature fruit from a prestigious PDO Santorini vineyard. The wine is fermented with native yeast in a blend of stainless steel tanks and new oak barrels, offering complexity and nuance. Notes of citrus fruit are prominent on the palate, alongside a saline and mineral character with subtle hints of spice.
Xinomavro
Ask its most ardent fans and you’ll be told that xinomavro produces wines that are not dissimilar to Barolo from Piedmont. Comparisons to the revered nebbiolo wine aside, xinomovro boasts its own unique qualities that make it worthy of praise. The grape is found across the north and central areas of the mainland, including designations like PDO Naoussa in Macedonia.
Aside from producing dazzling red wines, xinomavro is also vinified as rosé, sparkling, and sweet wines, showcasing its versatility. Nevertheless, the red wines are most age-worthy, bringing complexity to the table and pairing well with hearty Greek specialties. Xinomavro displays vibrant red fruits and earthiness on the palate, with hints of star anise, allspice, licorice, and tobacco that add complexity. It boasts sturdy tannins that contribute to its longevity, along with a bright acidity that brings balance.
Thymiopoulos Vineyards in Naoussa produces 10 different expressions of xinomavro, so it’s a pretty solid bet if you’re looking to get a feel for the variety. Try the Rosé de Xinomavro for something a little lighter albeit no less complex, with aromas of red berries, plums, sun-dried tomato, rose petals, and oregano. If you’re ready for more, Xinomavro Young Vines is an excellent progression toward bolder styles of this variety. Expect notes of ripe red fruits, mint, and hints of spice.
Moschofilero
If you’re a fan of fragrant white wines, then moschofilero is a good bet. The fruit itself has a darker tinge, but moschofilero is typically vinified as a white wine, with some sparkling and rosé wines on the market too. It’s mostly grown in the Peloponnese under the PDO Mantinia designation, where it benefits from the cooler mountain climate. Thanks to its full-throttle aromas, moschofilero is often blended with milder grapes to boost their character, though it’s increasingly bottled as a single-varietal wine.
Its richly aromatic profile is balanced by a refreshing hit of acidity, keeping the wine light and playful. Notes of rose petals, potpourri, orange blossom, honeydew, citrus, and almond are commonly tasted. Depending on the vinification, it can take on a zestier, more herbaceous and savory character. For this reason, many people refer to it as a chameleon grape, with its ability to shift styles.
Sample the grape with a bottle of Tselepos Wines Mantinia Classic Moschofilero, which boasts plenty of acidity and fresh citrus notes. Hints of rose and white flowers suggest sweetness, but this wine remains perfectly dry on the palate. Serve it with seafood, sushi, or classic Greek stuffed vine leaves.
Malagousia
Close to extinction by the second half of the 20th century, malagousia persevered and found its way back into vineyards across Greece. As Greek grape growers went back to their viticultural roots, the qualities of this white grape became increasingly evident, and it’s now grown on the mainland and in some islands, namely Rhodes, where it has a PDO designation. It expresses its terroir quite prominently, resulting in a range of styles depending on the soil and climate of where it’s grown.
Malagousia shines in top-tier white wines that are brimming with aromatic potential, with tasting notes including peach, citrus, melon, flowers, and fresh herbs. Its fragrant features make it a great candidate for blending, though its rich character is best expressed when bottled solo. Both dry and sweet late harvest malagousia wines are produced, highlighting the variety’s diverse character.
Chances are there’s a style of malagousia perfect for the occasion. To begin your exploration, try a bottle of Malagouzia by Domaine Tatsis, a biodynamic and organic producer in Goumenissa, Macedonia. The wine is delightfully fresh, with hints of stone fruit, citrus, quince, white flowers, and a nutty finish.
Agiorgitiko
Don’t be intimidated by its tricky name (which actually means St. George’s grape), as Greece’s most prominent red wine grape, agiorgitiko shows up in a wide range of styles. Whether you’re looking for a light rosé or a more complex red wine, there’s a bottle for you. The latter is typically aged in oak barrels, adding roundness and structure to the wine. You’ll commonly find this grape bottled under the PDO Nemea appellation in the Peloponnese peninsula, which also happens to be the largest appellation in the country. Here, it’s often grown at higher altitudes, bringing freshness and balance to the palate.
Notes of raspberry, blackberry, dark plum, baking spices, and chocolate are common in agiorgitiko. Thanks to the variability in vinification, it pairs well with plenty of foods, from grilled vegetables to heartier meat stews. Try a bottle of Saint George Nemea by Domaine Skouras, an applauded winery in the Peloponnese, blending tradition with modern innovation. Hints of black cherry, berries, tobacco, and spice linger on the palate, along with smooth tannins to tie it all together.
Roditis
Roditis comes out on top as the most planted white grape variety in Greece, though it happens to have a pinkish tinge that can be highlighted in vinification. The grape shows up in several regions and appellations of the country, namely the PDO Patras. The best versions are grown at higher altitudes, helping guarantee sufficient ripening during the day, balanced with acidity retention in the cooler nights. Although roditis is increasingly bottled as a varietal wine, it is also commonly blended with other white grapes for a balanced result.
Since this grape is so common, it is worthwhile to choose a reputable producer, as it can be bland if improperly handled in the vineyard and cellar. When done well, it exhibits subtle notes of tropical fruits, zesty citrus, minerality, white flowers, honey, and herbs. Esteemed producer Tetramythos’s Roditis is a solid bet to experience the variety at its best. Notes of green apple and lemon mingle with honeyed, floral aromas and a stony finish. This is a winner with seafood or poultry dishes.
Savatiano
This old Greek white grape variety is commonly planted around the country, making up a fair share of the white wines. Savatiano was once primarily used in the production of retsina, a resinated wine, but it has since pivoted toward well-crafted white table wines. Once a bit misunderstood in the vineyard and cellar, wine growers are increasingly fine-tuning its production, resulting in excellent wines, bottled both as a single varietal or as a blend. This includes limiting yields, following suitable pruning methods, harvesting at the optimal time, and growing the best clones for the terroir.
Typically displaying notes of green apple, pear, honeydew, lime, herbs, and grass, savatiano comes together with a rounded finish that manages to balance freshness and richness, especially with lees aging. Domaine Papagiannakos produces an excellent Old Vines Savatiano that captures the nuances of this variety. Crisp citrus notes are paired with peach and floral aromas, along with an herbal and saline character that gives it an edge. Serve it chilled as an aperitif or with your favorite Greek seafood dish.
Mavrodaphne
This grape variety has dark, near-black skins, giving the resulting wines an extra inky hue. Traditionally vinified as a fortified dessert wine (the most notable example being Mavrodaphne of Patras, which is often compared to Port), more recently this variety has been used to make full-bodied dry wines (not unlike Italian Amarone). Mavrodaphne is most abundant in the Peloponnese peninsula, as well as the island of Cephalonia, where it’s used to make dry and dessert wines.
Whether vinified sweet or dry, mavrodaphne typically exhibits concentrated rich aromas of dried dark fruits, spices, caramel, chocolate, and marzipan, with a subtle bitter finish. Discover this iconic Greek dessert wine with a bottle of Loukatos Mavrodaphne of Patras, brimming with blackberries, blueberries, dark plums, and fig, along with a balanced acidity. Mix it up by serving this sweet wine as an aperitif, or for a classic option pair it with a decadent chocolate dessert.
Athiri
This ancient white wine grape calls the Aegean Sea home, where it’s grown on several islands, especially Rhodes. It can handle the dry conditions common in this area of the country, though it’s also grown on the mainland, in parts of Macedonia. Athiri displays fairly subtle flavors, with a medium body, moderate alcohol levels, and an overall moderate nature. These mild characteristics make it a popular candidate for blending, such as to round out the acidity of assyrtiko wines. On the other hand, its medium alcohol and acidity levels make it a wine best drunk young.
Bottled as a single-varietal wine, it’s fresh and lively, with notes of citrus, apple, and white flowers prominent on the palate. Athiri’s easy-going nature makes it a good match for hard-to-pair foods, light seafood dishes, or simply served as an aperitif. It can be tricky to track down a 100% athiri wine, so try a blend to see how it complements other varieties. Domaine Sigalas AA features assyrtiko and athiri grapes, displaying notes of stone fruit, citrus zest, and white blossoms alongside a mineral-driven palate.
Retsina
Unlike the rest of this list, retsina isn’t a grape variety but a type of Greek wine. It’s commonly made with savatiano and roditis grapes, but the process is really where it stands out. Evidence suggests retsina has been produced for thousands of years, blending pine resin with wine for a one-of-a-kind result.
Traditionally, pine was incorporated into production because the vineyards were close to pine forests, making it a natural pairing. Additionally, the sticky resin was sometimes used to seal vessels during fermentation, and the vessels themselves were occasionally made with pine wood. Furthermore, pine resin was also purposely added to wine to give it more character, which as expected, leaned heavily toward piney aromas.
The success of the technique has largely varied, and it once left quite a lot to be desired. Nowadays, retsina has started to see a resurgence in quality thanks to producers dedicating more attention to this ancient winemaking method. Tetramythos Wines makes a great retsina with the roditis grape, featuring notes of lemon, peach, pear, chamomile, and herbs. The winery also produces a version fermented in clay amphora that’s available in some markets.
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