Italian wines are often celebrated for their culinary versatility.
Brunello, Barolo, Chianti and Pinot Grigio tend to steal the show, however, there are some 500 indigenous grape varieties planted throughout Italy. While many of these native varieties are produced in limited quantities, and therefore are not exported, there are still dozens of varieties that do make it overseas—and are worth discovering.
Given the myriad of flavors that the holiday season produces, you’ll want a wine that complements the tablescape from tangy vegetables to herbed meats to creamy mashed potatoes—and these underrated Italian wines offer just that. From structured white wines to fruit-forward and earthy red wines, the majority of these varieties are as food friendly as their more recognized counterparts but at a fraction of the price.
Read on to discover eight underrated grape varieties and bottles to bring to this year’s holiday feasts.
Fontanavecchia Sannio Coda di Volpe PDO
Chardonnay is not the only food-friendly white wine on the market as proven by this elegantly structured Coda di Volpe produced from the eponymous native grape from the Campania region. A layered sip of ripe peach, white flower, lime zest and hint of minerality makes this a versatile pairing for holiday occasions from appetizers through to dessert. $25, cbcwine.com
Tenuta Roveglia ‘Wighel’ Lugana
Upon first sniff of this white wine from Italy’s northern Lugana region, enticing notes of honeysuckle and white fruit may liken an Alsatian Riesling but first sip convinces otherwise as a result of the Turbiana grape’s prevalent almond and tangerine characteristics. The mid-weight and creamy texture position this bottle as an ideal white wine for a Thanksgiving spread as it can stand up to some of the intense seasonings without overpowering them. SRP $18, bottleofitaly.com
Varvaglione Susumaniello Salento Rosato IGP
Susumaniello is an ancient black grape from the Puglia region that was nearly forgotten in the first half of the 1900s as producers prioritized quantity over quality. As the tides have turned, some Puglian producers, like the family-owned Varvaglione, are committed to not only reviving Susumaniello but also ushering the grape into the modern era by creating a Susumaniello rosé. The juicy cherry notes and bright acidity create a food-friendly rosé that’s as complementary to light fish dishes as it is herb-crusted poultry. SRP $15, bottleofitaly.com
Tenuta Scerscé ‘Nettare’ Rosso di Valtellina DOC
The Chiavennasca grape is a regional subtype of Alpine Nebbiolo. In comparison to the robust expressions of Piedmontese Nebbiolo, Chiavennasca offers a more floral and fruity red wine that’s balanced with bright acidity. This entry-level bottle from Tenuta Scerscé is fermented and aged in stainless steel and cement tanks for a lighter body and soft tannins that are as enjoyable with or without food, but for the former, this wine’s aromas of rose and palate of spiced berries complement a wide range of culinary flavors. SRP $30, empirewine.com
Vineyards around Lake Garda in Italy.
getty2020 Pasini San Giovanni Valtenesi DOC Groppello
The Lake Garda-based Pasini San Giovanni winery believes the native Groppello grape expresses itself best without any influence from wood, hence this variety is aged in stainless steel to maintain its inherent freshness and earthy, floral characteristics. As an original descendent from the Sangiovese grape, Groppello exhibits some of the similar spice and floral qualities but with a much subtler style that lends this bottle its versatility as a pre-dinner or with dinner type of wine. SRP $21, leonandsonwine.com
Banfi La Lus Piemonte DOC Albarossa
A vine cross of Nebbiolo and Barbera results in the Albarossa grape, which produces a wine with the best of both varieties mellowed by 12 months of aging in French Oak. Banfi is one of four producers of Albarossa with an expression that’s ripe with cherry, plum, warm vanilla and a slight anise finish. SRP $29, liquorcave.com
Surrau ‘Naracu’ Cannonau di Sardegna DOC
Ripe red fruits mingle with dried Mediterranean like sage and oregano in this red wine from Sardinia’s most prized grape. The Cannonau grape, otherwise called Grenache, typically results in a full-bodied expression with bold tannins but given the Vigne Surrau winery ferments and ages this wine in stainless steel, this Cannonau is more fresh, and therefore, adaptable to different culinary pairings. SRP $17, buywinesonline.com
Alasia Brachetto d’Acqui
Lambrusco is one of Italy’s most prominently recognized red wines that’s appreciated for its off-dry, bubbly palate. However, the Piedmont region also produces a semi-sweet, sparkling red wine that’s optimal for dessert—Brachetto d’Acqui. Produced from the Brachetto grape, this wine is full of black currant, raspberry and rose petals so that it pairs with a variety of sweets from fruit pies to chocolate creations. SRP $17, corkerywine.com
Dining and Cooking