From the French school system to France’s best sandwich, plus the French words that say something about French culture, this week’s La Belle Vie newsletter offers an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking, and living like a local.
La Belle Vie is our regular look at the real culture of France – from language to cuisine, manners to films. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to your newsletter preferences in “My account”.
Recently, I’ve found myself reflecting on my first year in France. It was a tough year. I struggled to find an apartment, speak French, and meet people outside of my anglophone circle. At the time, I was teaching English at two middle schools (collèges) in Noisy-le-Grand, a suburb outside of Paris.
A few months into the job, the first pension protests kicked off and my 45-minute commute became an unpredictable two hours. Then the Covid-19 pandemic hit, and French schools closed.
As we went into lockdown, I remember thinking that between strikes, pandemic, and the autumn, Christmas, and winter school holidays, I’d only really spent a few weeks teaching in person.
The 2019-2020 school year was a unique case, but last summer, when the French president launched a public discussion on the length of French school holidays, I wasn’t surprised.
5-day weeks, shorter classes and later starts: How France could change the school day
While I loved the rhythm of seven-or-so weeks on, two weeks off, I could see that some pupils struggled, and the week after each holiday period was mostly used for reviewing previous material.
There were many things about the French school system that struck me: delicious school lunches coupled with very long, packed school days. Foreign parents whose kids have gone through the French system had similar observations.
7 tips from parents for surviving the French school system
On my first day of work, I packed my lunch (typical American), but I realised this might’ve been a mistake as soon as I smelled the cafeteria. I watched as the children and teachers filled their plates with fresh couscous, chicken, root vegetables, with a slice of cheese and yoghurt to finish.
Though some of my colleagues did run out to the local boulangerie to pick up the ‘best French sandwich’.
French sandwich elected ‘best in world’ by Time Out
While I was not surprised by the faint smell of body odour – adolescents across the world are cursed to be a little stinky – I was surprised that the teachers’ lounge had a lingering smell of wine.
Apparently, the night before, there had been a pot (after work drinks). I learned that storing wine for occasional after-work parties in the teachers’ lounge was totally normal in France…nothing to write home about.
I no longer work in a school with a canteen. These days, the only time I smell couscous at lunch is if it’s being reheated in the microwave.
The 18 smells that let you know you’re in France
Just like specific smells, France also has some specific language that does not quite translate into English.
One of my favourite words is saucer – which literally means to clean the sauce off your plate with a piece of bread. Feels appropriate for wintertime, which is the best time to enjoy a warm soup or a hearty gratin.
13 untranslatable French words that tell us something about France
And finally, one word I’d add to the list is solde. No, this is not the past participle of ‘to sell’. It actually refers to the French sales, which happen twice a year.
I’m always tempted to look at the Black Friday deals in France, but I try to remind myself that the best markdowns happen in January during the state-sanctioned soldes d’hiver.
What to know about ‘Black Friday’ sales in France
Dining and Cooking