The patchwork of parcelled vineyard in the Ciro territory makes for interesting terroir driven wines.
Consorzio Ciro DOCG
Calabria’s most important wine appellation has finally received the appropriate validation of its wines through an upgrade from DOC to DOCG in Italy’s hierarchy of wine classifications. Located on the ankle of Italy’s boot-shaped peninsula, Cirò is considered the oldest continuous vine-growing territory in the region and stretches from the Ionian coastline inland toward the first hills of the Sila massif.
It may not be an area familiar to casual wine consumers, but nevertheless this territory has been producing wines since the arrival of Ancient Greek settlers eight centuries before Christ. Today, notwithstanding this latest recognition of pedigree, its wines are well worth investigating.
President of the consortium of winemakers, Carlo Siciliani, says that recognition “confirms the deep-rooted tradition, consolidated quality, and a production community capable of working collaboratively. For Calabrian wine as a whole, the DOCG is a turning point: it helps usher in a new era of attention, respect, and curiosity for our products.” Indeed, Siciliani points out that “for Calabrian wine as a whole, this DOCG status is a turning point. It will help us usher in a new era of attention, respect, and curiosity for our products.”
He is almost certainly right. Although Cirò can also be found in white and rosé expressions, at the heart of the territory’s fame is Gaglioppo, a thick-skinned, drought-resistant red variety that has been cultivated in the region for centuries. Gaglioppo struggles elsewhere, but in Cirò it thrives, thanks in part to the balance between intense sun exposure, sea humidity, and hillside drainage.
Ciro’ vineyards
Ciro Consorzio
Fabio Mecca, a consultant winemaker in the south of Italy, says “Cirò is a special terroir, with vineyards overlooking the sea or vineyards on medium-high hills, ancient and native grape varieties, a highly interesting soil and climate, and certainly a region still in the process of growth and development.” He adds that “in the vineyard, it’s important to regulate production and understand that Cirò needs sun viticulture. Even in this heat, Gaglioppo must ripen.”
Taking its name from the historic town of Cirò, the official appellation territory covers around 1,500 hectares, of which approximately 500 are in the ‘Classico’ areas. The soils in Cirò are primarily sedimentary; they are rich in limestone, clay, and marine fossils. Despite the proximity to the sea, elevations can rise quickly, from 50m a.s.l. up to 400m.
These factors, together with moderating influences from both sea and mountain air, create a distinctive microclimate of warm days, cool nights, and consistent breezes that help preserve freshness in the grapes. Access to maritime ventilation is one key component of Cirò’s gentle perfumes.
Siciliani is also keen to emphasise the area’s distinctiveness. “The Cirò terroir is unique because it combines irreplicable history, nature, and culture. We are located in the heart of Magna Graecia, in an area where viticulture has been around for over two millennia. We have the work of man, built on experience, passion, and resilience. It is a terroir that not only produces wine, but also expresses identity and belonging.”
Vineyards in the Cirò DOC in close proximity to the sea.
Consorzio Vini Cirò
It should be noted that only the wines fulfilling the Classico, Superiore, and Riserva requirements of Cirò’s red wines have been elevated to DOCG, and going forward the appellation will be called Cirò Classico DOCG. To qualify, a minimum of 90% Gaglioppo is required, with up to 10% Magliocco and/or Greco Nero grown in one or both of the two municipalities of Cirò and Cirò Marina. The wine must be aged at least 36 months before release, of which 6 months must be in wooden cask. The existing DOC will cover everything else.
There has been a great deal of interest in southern Italy’s more ethereal wines over recent years, and wine lovers will find much to like in Gaglioppo, the defining variety of the area. Admirers of Nerello Mascalese grown on nearby Mount Etna in Sicily will find modest comparisons. As taste profiles continue to evolve, the more subtle and restrained characteristics of indigenous varieties such as Gaglioppo are enjoying a renaissance.
Producers often avoid excessive oak, choosing instead to express the grape’s natural rusticity and subtle complexity. Mecca, who consults on winemaking start-up projects and small wineries, says “in the cellar, it’s necessary to work with purity, highlighting specific characteristics of altitude and soil, which are essential characteristics for me.”
It is thought that the wine was offered to winners at the Olympic Games in Athens more than two thousand years ago. It’s a compelling image, and one that was replicated when it became the official wine of the 1968 Games in Mexico. This year’s acknowledgment is clearly reflective of work already carried out in the past, but the news will undoubtedly bring more visibility to the wine and encourage greater interest and conversation about the territory’s gastronomic culture.
For Carlo Siciliani, the DOCG signals the start of a new phase. “It challenges us to raise our standards and to increase our investment in landscape protection, training, traceability, and communication.” Winemaker Fabio Mecca echoes this, describing the milestone as one that strengthens Cirò’s credibility at home and abroad.
The recognition, Siciliani notes, belongs to everyone involved. And with his declaration that “each of us becomes its custodian from this moment on,” the region enters its next chapter with real excitement and purpose.
Dining and Cooking