la monique 3

The pretty-in-pink Miss Monique: a coconut-washed Tito’s Cosmopolitan topped with cherry-nutmeg foam and a mist of rose water.

THE DRINKS

This is not your run-of-the-mill cocktail list; the mixology program here transcends one-note flavor pairings while entertaining the concept of nostalgia. When my order, the Pacific Loot, arrives, it is enclosed in a small treasure chest. The waiter awaits my cue, revealing a blue glow, billowing smoke and flowers with the green and yellow-chartreuse cocktail at its center. After a few beats, a golden platter is set before us, featuring our next libation: the Cinema Paradiso 24, rightfully served with a side of popcorn. The copper-colored rocks glass fuses High West Double Rye with popcorn syrup, chocolate bitters and perfectly leveled Coca-Cola foam. Flavorfully layered and complex, the concoction is a toast to L.A.’s silver screen history.

THE DISHES

While a French-trained chef, Fricaud also cut his teeth in global kitchens, from Abu Dhabi to Egypt, and locally at Malibu Beach Inn. Simply put, he knows the nuances of fine dining—and it shows. That same knowledge and professionalism is instilled in the staff, where our waiter colorfully outlines each dish with precision and ease. He dives into the intricacies of dishes that absolutely live up to their vibrant descriptions: butternut squash agnolotti as pillowy, sage-forward, tiny bites of heaven, Hamachi crudo enlivened by bright leche de tigre, tender A5 wagyu sprinkled in flaky sea salt and sided by charred cherry tomatoes—plus a bowl of crispy, herb-dusted French fries.

la monique 2

Beef tartare with Kennebec potato chips

THE DESSERT

La Monique flips the script on French pastries, so don’t expect the usual soufflé. Which leaves us weighing our decisions between the whimsical crepe “sushi” and sticky toffee madelines. We choose the latter—a great call on our part: three small buttery cakes dipped in thick, saccharine toffee sauce atop crunchy pistachios. Sizeable, sweet and incredibly indulgent, we even take one home to enjoy later.

THE TAKEAWAY

It’s not every day you see a beach-facing hotel with an intimate and equally glamorous French fine dining concept, but take it from us, it really works. From Brudnizki’s sumptuous, no stone-unturned design to food and beverage that expertly teeters between formal and fun, La Monique is bringing a fresh wave of sophistication to Ocean Blvd.—with reservations already flying fast.

Dining and Cooking