The news
The announcement was made at the Maison de la Mutualité in Paris during the Gault&Millau 2026 gala ceremony: César Troisgros is the new Chef of the Year. There was palpable excitement in the room as the chef from Le Bois sans feuilles restaurant in Ouches, a leading figure in a dynasty that has marked, and continues to mark, the history of French gastronomy, was announced.
An unrivalled dynasty in French cuisine
The Troisgros family is almost unique in the world of gastronomy. For four generations, the name has been synonymous with excellence, creativity, and rigor. It all began in Roanne, in the house-restaurant opposite the station, where Jean-Baptiste and Marie Troisgros embarked on a journey that would take their descendants to the heights of signature cuisine. César followed in the footsteps of his father Michel, named Chef of the Year in 2003, and his grandfather Pierre, who received the same title in 1987. Never before had three successive generations received such prestigious recognition: an achievement that speaks to the strength of a family and a tradition, but also to the ability to reinvent oneself over time.
The legacy of Pierre, Michel, and the voice of a united family
Behind every Troisgros there is a story of collective passion. Pierre, who passed away in 2020, remains in our memory as a legend: a three-star chef, innovator, and central figure in the creation of a gastronomic community that set the standard. Michel continued in the spirit of balance and culinary sensitivity, while César, now at the head of the group since 2023, represents a new generation, aware of its heritage but also determined to write the future. The Troisgros family is not just a group of chefs: it is a tribe that welcomes, unites, and transmits values even before recipes. Love, respect, tolerance, and a spirit of sharing are the ingredients that have given flavor to their history for generations. And to think that César’s great-grandparents lived in the very place where the original hotel-restaurant was located before it was moved: their home was the kitchen, and vice versa—all under the same roof.
Felix LedruThe César style: tradition and personal identity
Although the Troisgros culinary heritage is impressive—just think of the famous salmon with sorrel—César is not a copy of his predecessors. As Marc Esquerré, director of the Gault&Millau guides, points out, the chef “creates cuisine that is in harmony with that of his father and grandfather, but with an authentic and recognizable personality.” . Each dish strikes a balance between memory and creative impulse. His cuisine dialogues with the nature that surrounds Le Bois sans feuilles, combining an essential aesthetic and a depth of flavor that reflect the family’s philosophy of life: living and cooking in harmony with the land, with others, and with oneself.
An award that looks to the future
Succeeding Frédéric Anton, renowned chef at Le Pré Catelan and Jules Verne on the Eiffel Tower, César Troisgros officially enters the pantheon of great contemporary chefs. But his gaze is already looking ahead: toward new interpretations, new projects, and above all, toward a “family history” that continues to evolve. With this award, Gault&Millau is celebrating not only a chef, but an entire vision of gastronomy: that of a family that has been passing down talent, rigor, hospitality, and a tireless love for good food for almost a century.
Dining and Cooking