After 35 years, this wine was still wonderfully alive. If anything, I’d say it’s right at its peak. Acidity and fruit are beautifully present, the tannins fully integrated. The color has shifted to a pale tawny, and the mouthfeel is impressively round. A long, persistent finish with Piedmont hallmarks: earthy tones, truffle, tobacco.
I pulled the cork three hours before dinner, then gave it a gentle decant about half an hour prior to serving. It was immediately enjoyable and kept developing steadily in the glass.
I enjoyed it at home with a perfect match: ossobuco. For the wine in the ossobuco, I chose a young Nebbiolo, also from Produttori. which turned out to be spot on.
by Phons
Dining and Cooking