I’ve tested several fats to find which creates the crispiest, fluffiest roast potatoes for Christmas – one is not to be missed
I’ve tested several fats to find which creates the crispiest, fluffiest roast potatoes for Christmas – this fat is not to be missed(Image: Ellen Jenne)
At long last, my quest for the ultimate roast potato fat has reached its conclusion, just in time for the festive season. It’s been quite the journey, but with Christmas just around the corner, it’s high time to wrap up my spud experiments, reports the Express.
From mayonnaise to clotted cream to oil, I’ve sampled a variety of roasties, each with their own unique results. While some of these unconventional choices might raise eyebrows, they’re not to be scoffed at. However, for my grand finale, duck fat takes centre stage.
Neither as fancy as goose fat nor as traditional as beef dripping, duck fat completes the holy trinity of roasting fats. In my childhood, we’d only bring out the likes of goose or duck fat for Christmas – the rest of the year, our potatoes were roasted in oil.
Duck fat has been a popular choice fat among chefs for their potatoes(Image: Ellen Jenne)
In essence, using fat lends an air of sophistication that your run-of-the-mill vegetable oil simply can’t match. I recall when Heston Blumenthal popularised triple-cooked chips, with duck fat being the star ingredient in this gourmet creation.
Aesthetically, duck fat leaves much to be desired. It resembles a grainy, lumpy sand-like substance swimming in its own juices.
Cooking with duck fat also brings to mind that infamous Friends episode where Chandler dupes Joey into drinking a glass of fat from Monica’s fridge. The mere thought of that revolting glass filled with floating chunks of meat, oil and fat still sends shivers down my spine and makes my teeth itch.
According to various foodie websites, duck fat has a smoke point of around 190, which isn’t as high as the mayo I previously put to the test. However, it’s crucial that the fat is smoking hot before the potatoes make their grand entrance.
Duck fat is very visually unappealing(Image: Ellen Jenne)
As per my usual routine, I preheated the roasting tin in the oven before introducing the duck fat. The question on everyone’s lips: how much fat is too much? I opted for roughly 200 grams from the 320-gram jar available at Sainsbury’s.
Each batch of potatoes has undergone the same ritual: parboiling, steam-drying for about ten minutes, and then chuffing. A bit of baking soda can work wonders on a chuffed spud.
With the fat sizzling away at 220 degrees for approximately 15 to 20 minutes, the unappetising yellowish sludge transforms into a clear, smoking pool. Carefully, ever so carefully, introduce the potatoes to the tin. You don’t need the hassle of spitting fat on Christmas Day.
The spuds sizzle merrily away, even if the sound does fade before I manage to get the tin back in the oven. Is the fat not hot enough? Will the potatoes fail to brown? Could this be the moment the humble spud gets the better of me?
Duck fat helps create a distinct crust that hides the softest, pillow-y inside(Image: Ellen Jenne)
After about 50 minutes in the oven (I allowed a few extra minutes for turning the potatoes halfway through), out came the familiar golden nuggets I remember my mum serving up at Christmas. Duck fat really comes into its own when you’re trying to ensure every last inch of the potato is covered.
While these potatoes might not be the darkest, they boast a beautiful golden-caramel coloured exterior. I say “exterior”, but it’s more like a crust.
Each spud was flawlessly encased in a distinct crust, setting apart the outer shell from the fluffy interior. When it comes to texture, duck fat takes the crown without a doubt.
Duck fat imparts an almost smokey, gamey taste to the potatoes, which is a significant step up from what the oil managed. It’s not overwhelming, but it certainly makes its presence felt.
Compared to the mayonnaise and clotted cream potatoes, there aren’t as many oily, crispy burnt bits to scrape off the tray. However, the superior quality of the potatoes more than compensates for this.
Duck fat provides consistency during cooking, along with an added layer of flavour that you wouldn’t get with regular oil. Duck fat is a sumptuous indulgence you won’t want to pass up this Christmas.
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Dining and Cooking