1997 Produttori del Barbaresco ‘Montestefano’

Produttori del Barbaresco is, in my opinion, the best wine cooperative on earth. Its history is interesting and complicated… a co-op was founded in the late 1800s to establish Barbaresco as a distinct appellation from Barolo, but Mussolini’s economic policies forced it to shut down in the 1930s. By 1958, the village priest convinced 19 growers to make wine together to survive in a tough economy, and thus Produttori was born. Today, there are 50 member growers and it has an outstanding reputation.

Though Produttori’s flagship is their basic Barbaresco (IMHO excellent value), they also make several single-vineyard bottlings like this Montestefano, which is known for some of the most structured, Barolo-like Barbarescos.

The 1997 vintage was warm and well-rated (but not outstanding), and this wine spent 2.5 years in oak before bottling. Alcohol level is 13.5%, which sounds moderate these days.

Tasting notes: Bottle and cork in great condition. Garnet with some bricking on the rim. Alive but very much tertiary — think mushrooms, dried roses, spice, and leather, with only a bit of dark fruit showing on the palate. Medium+ tannins and medium acidity. Long, earthy finish. I expected/wanted more fruit, but maybe the hot growing season resulted in lower acidity than ideal for long-term aging. Overall, a treat to taste, but I’ve preferred younger (15-20 years old) examples from the same vineyard.