Lately, I find myself daydreaming about the OG Burger.
The juiciness of the thick, well-seasoned wagyu patty — cooked medium and topped with melted, white American cheese, lettuce and tomato — paired well with the crunchiness of the briny pickles. The shallot elevated it from the usual onion and the house sauce pulled it together underneath a potato bun.
That was my favorite bite at Bisou Bar and Bistro, which opened in November in the former Kismet Bistro spot in Historic Hilton Village. My husband, Curtis, had shared his burger, and some fries, at the Newport News restaurant serving American cuisine with French-inspired dishes — and a lot of love.
He said he would “drive through the tunnel to eat that burger again.” I agreed.
The upscale casual restaurant serves eight main entrees, such as steak frites, chicken fricassee (a French stew), and Coquilles Saint Jacques (a scallop dish). It also offers pizzas baked in a stone-hearth oven and a few burgers and chicken sandwiches.
Greg Gipson, left, Izzy Smith, center, and Michele Smith of Bisou in Newport News sit for a portrait. (Peter Casey/The Virginian-Pilot)
Michele Smith and her son, Greg Gipson, own the bistro as well as Indulge Bakery and Bistro, a three-minute walk away. She wanted another place where Gipson, who’s a chef, could show off his creativity and passion for food.
Gipson’s inspiration comes from watching his grandmother and mother in the kitchen as a young boy. He remembers helping with the mussels and octopus as they prepared French cuisine. (Smith grew up in Europe; her mother was French.)
The family affair doesn’t stop there. Smith’s other son does the IT and runs the point-of-sale system. Her daughter works behind the bar.
“I’m a happy mom. I have all my kids around me,” Smith said.
The matriarch, rooted in her community, knows most people who come through the restaurant’s doors. She also hopes to share her family’s love for food with new customers.
Curtis and I visited on a busy Saturday evening, so we sat at the bar. Reservations were required for white cloth table seating in the dining room.
The mussels in the Moule a la Provencale are served in a lovely saffron tomato broth with shallots, tomatoes and herbs. (Peter Casey/The Virginian-Pilot)
We started with the Moule a la Provencale, a mussel dish that originated in the Provence region of France. The two hinged shells were served in a lovely saffron tomato broth with shallots, tomatoes and herbs. Nothing fishy was going on here. We removed the fresh mussels from their valves and swirled them around in the flavorful sauce. They had a slight chew, and the crusty bread came in handy for dipping too.
Bisou’s beet and goat cheese salad is a stunner. (Peter Casey/The Virginian-Pilot)
We enjoyed this appetizer but the smell of brown gravy from the poutine (french fries, cheese curds and gravy) made us envious of nearby customers who ordered it. I also side-eyed the beet and goat cheese salad. It was a stunner. “Next time,” I thought to myself.
I made sure to ask the staff what was popular on the menu and ordered accordingly.
My herbed, crusted salmon came on top of roasted shallot mashed potatoes in a creamy, lemon beurre blanc (a French emulsified butter sauce) next to a side of sautéed zucchini and squash. The dish landed on my must-have list when looking for a well-balanced meal with a nice-size tender fish and yum-ptious vegetables.
The decadent praline cream filling of the Paris-Brest dessert was light and creamy. (Peter Casey/The Virginian-Pilot)
We left room for dessert. Curtis ate a classic crème brûlée with no complaints. I indulged on the Paris-Brest, a choux pastry filled with praline cream and topped with honey, almonds and hazelnut praline. It was a little tough to cut but the decadent filling was light and creamy.
Once we licked the last remnants of deliciousness from our lips, my husband and I ended our date with a kiss (“bisou” in French).
Rekaya Gibson, 757-295-8809, rekaya.gibson@virginiamedia.com
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If you go
Where: 99 Main St., Newport News
Hours: 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday
Prices: $22 to $52 entrees, $14 to $22 pizzas,$19 to $22 burgers and sandwiches,
Details: bisoubarandbistro.com, 757-810-9246
Dining and Cooking