An incredibly simple cocktail that, odds are, you’ve never had before.
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Tandoori Octopus
The hardest part of this recipe is getting your hands on the octopus. Give your fishmonger a few days to order it for you.
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Asparagus with Mussel Beurre Blanc
Okay, so maybe you don’t live across the street from a blooming locust tree—you can still make a killer butter sauce.
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Cod with Potatoes and Preserved Lemon Relish
An assertive—and, trust us, habit-forming—relish enlivens a humble dish of silky cod and crushed potatoes.
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Strawberry-Elderflower Cake
It’s airy, light, and sweet, but this delicate cake gets pucker and punch from vinegar in both the icing and the filling.
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Laurent Cabut and Crystèle Petit share a laugh
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Sliced smoked duck breast and simple tapas for the apéro hour
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Aizpitarte’s hors d’oeuvres start with a few great products
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Inaki Aizpitarte (center), with his partners Laurent Cabut (left) and Franck Audoux, enjoying a pairing of Basque cheese and Cyril Zangs sparkling cider.
‘)], $targets = $(‘h3.ss-anchor’); script.type = ‘text/javascript’; $targets.each(function(ind){ var anchor = $(this), show = ss[ind]; return $(this).after(show); }); return document.body.appendChild(script); }); }(window, document, jQuery)); My husband might phrase it differently, but it’s fair to say I’ve been tracking the quietly intense chef Inaki Aizpitarte for over ten years. It started in 2003 when my Parisian food friends took me to La Famille, a tiny spot where his ambition radiated from a kitchen the size of a dorm fridge. The week after Aizpitarte opened Le Chateaubriand in 2006, I waited at the bar for a table for so long that I was too drunk to remember my meal (though I got some great phone pics of the bed-headed waiters modeling “I ♥ NY” T-shirts). And at the Omnivore festival in Deauville, France, four years ago, I watched as Aizpitarte showed a gorgeously abstract film involving blowtorched chestnuts and raw daikon (I think).
I’m not the only Inaki-watcher. While few outside of the foodist fishbowl know “Ee-NYA-kee,” he is the man nearly every big-name male chef in the world under 40 (or 65) wants to look like, cook like, and be like. The 42-year-old French-Basque Aizpitarte set out as a landscape designer and ended up outpacing Joël Robuchon on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. His success comes from Le Chateaubriand, the brasserie with a tasting menu as brashly intellectual and, shall we say, challenging as it is delicious. The first seating has been booked nightly since he and his partners, Franck Audoux and Laurent Cabut, opened the place. The second, no-reservation seating draws so many hopefuls to the now crazily trendy 11th arrondissement that they opened Le Dauphin next door, now a destination in itself.
Dining and Cooking