Today on “Feast in the Kitchen,” we feature Robert Pantusa, chef and owner of La Rocca Osteria in Montclair.
Chef Robert Pantusa
Chef Robert Pantusa got his associate degree in culinary arts at Johnson & Wales. While celebrating with his family at San Domenico in New York City, he struck up a conversation with the owner, who suggested he go to their sister restaurant in Imola, Italy, to deepen his culinary experience. What started as a three-month internship became a three-year stay.
After returning to New Jersey, Pantusa opened La Vigna in Little Falls and then worked at other restaurants in the area before opening Osteria Giotto with his partner, Luca Valerin. The Osteria was hugely popular in Montclair, but the two chefs became burned out and closed the doors in 2016.
They opened Cafe Giotto in 2018, but it wasn’t the right fit for Pantusa. In 2019, the partnership dissolved, with Pantusa returning to the original spot to open La Rocca Osteria just six weeks before the COVID shutdown and Valerin staying on at the cafe. The rest is history. La Rocca has gone from strength to strength and established a solid following in the local community.
1. What’s your favorite local spot to eat?
Montclair has so many great restaurants that it is hard to choose just one, but among my favorites are Faubourg — Chef Maya and Chef Olivier always do an amazing job. I love the bar scene and the ambiance of the garden. De Novo for its consistently good food and cocktails, and our go-to for sushi takeout. I also just had an amazing dinner at the Minoru — kudos to Meji and the team!
2. What’s your favorite ingredient to cook with — and how does it shine in each season?
In the summer, there is nothing like a sweet, juicy, local tomato — whether it is in a simple caprese salad, in a gazpacho, or lightly cooked with garlic and oil as a sauce for pasta. I also love the versatility of butternut squash in the fall and winter. At La Rocca, we use it in salads and soups, make butternut squash gnocchi with gorgonzola, and, of course, one of our signature pastas: the butternut squash tortelloni, in a brown butter and truffle sauce, topped with amaretti cookies.
3. What’s one ingredient you secretly (or not-so-secretly) can’t stand?
That’s an easy one — cilantro. You either love it or hate it.
4. Tell us about a meal you’ll never forget.
I was in my early twenties and working at a restaurant in northern Italy. I was vacationing in the south with two other chefs. We stumbled across a restaurant in the hills above the Amalfi coast. It was quite a dive. I remember there were cats roaming everywhere, but what I will never forget is the delicious aroma of chicken roasting on a spit outside. The juices from the chicken falling onto the roast potatoes beneath. Flavored with just a little salt and fresh rosemary, it was the simplest of dishes, but often the simplest dishes are the best.
5. When you’re off the clock — not in the kitchen — how do you like to spend your time?
I enjoy walking our dogs and start every day with a good walk – it is a way to clear my head and prepare me for the craziness of the restaurant. I also enjoy pottering around the house and garden, and like to challenge myself with different DIY projects.
In the summer, I love the beach, and I am more than happy to spend the day relaxing, listening to Audible, and doing absolutely nothing. These days, you can also find me occasionally helping with demolition at the new Italian steakhouse I will be opening with Dmetri from DeNovo. Watch this space!
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