Celebrating the holidays in a hotel is a trend on the rise, so I checked into Christmas at The Yeatman in Porto’s Gaia district, looking for a little holiday hospitality. What I found? A lobby full of lights and a winter wonderland of wine!
“Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the house — Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse…” C.C. Moore might have been at a well-run hotel when he wrote his classic poem. Not only appealing for being effortless and stress-free, a Christmas or New Years stay at a hotel can be a marvellous experience in itself. In fact, demand for hotels and restaurants in the holiday season are on the rise in Portugal, with occupancy expected to reach as high as 95% some places this year. Domestic travellers continue to represent a significant share of bookings, especially in cities and coastal areas.
Just imagine sitting by a cozy fireplace, drinking a velvety glass of red wine with a nighttime vista that resembles an advent calendar, complete with twinkling lights and trains crossing the Ponte Luís I, while the December rain taps on the patios outside. Everything is tastefully decorated and Christmas dinner is already in the making. This is the reality at The Yeatman, nestled in the Gaia district of Porto and blessed with extravagant views of the river Douro.
Credits: Supplied Image; Author: PR – THE YEATMAN;
From derelict to lively
That very same river used to carry boatloads of wine from the cultivation area in the Douro Valley to be stored and aged in the cooler area of Gaia and later shipped out via the river mouth of Porto to the Atlantic. In the 17th century, British merchants trading in Porto began adding a little grape spirit to the wine, so it would not go bad during the long sea voyages. The result was Port wine: richer, sweeter and destined for international fame — and that British influence still echoes today in many of the region’s Port houses. Alas, with modern technology for cooling and a change in legislation in 1986, the facilities in Gaia fell into disuse, leaving the area desolate and neglected for almost two decades.
But with the growth of tourism in Porto at the beginning of the millennium, redevelopment and regeneration projects began targeting the old warehouses and historic areas of Gaia’s waterfront. Wine tourism became the lever that would help preserve the cultural and architectural heritage, thus bringing economic and cultural vitality back to Gaia. Now this is a sort of Disneyland for adults, with many of the 200-year-old cellars and warehouses repurposed as places to taste, buy and learn about port wine and it’s history. Some cellars, like Taylor’s Port, still mature wine in old barrels on site and they are open for visits and tastings.
Credits: Supplied Image; Author: PR – WOW;
A crazy idea
Standing just above this revitalised district is The Yeatman Hotel. Opened in 2010 by a family deeply connected to Port wine since the 19th century, it was conceived as a luxury wine hotel celebrating Portuguese wine culture. At the time, many thought the idea was wildly optimistic. Gaia was still largely derelict, hardly a place one would wander alone at night. Yet the pioneer move paid off, The Yeatman became a catalyst, encouraging further hotels, restaurants and ultimately the creation of WOW — The World of Wine in 2020-2023. Home to seven state-of-the-art museums, ten restaurants and bars, shops and events and exhibition spaces, its museums explore wine, cork, chocolate, drinking vessels, Porto’s history, and more.
I especially, and surprisingly, enjoyed the guided visit to The Art of Drinking museum, a vast collection of drinking vessels, revealing a wider cultural history from all over the world, from rites and rituals to drinking games (apparently not invented by frat boys drinking from red cups, but here for at least three millennia). And if that makes you thirsty, enter the Pink Palace afterwards, a museum that will make you tipsy on rosé.
WOW hosts an extensive Christmas programme, running all the way to January 6th: From a 13-meter tall Christmas tree and 7.5 kilometre of lights to activities for families, like chocolate and ornaments workshops and Santa’s presence. You will also find a Christmas market with quality handicrafts and a small gastronomic market as well. This year, there is a LEGO® exhibition at the Atkinson Museum, and it’s not just fun for kids to see the many creations; you will recognise landmarks from Porto, and others will transport you right back to childhood. Some of WOW’s restaurants are also open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, while the museums are open every day of the year.
The Christmas Checklist
When your feet get tired from wandering the immense cultural district, let yourself sink into the plush furnishings of The Yeatman. Even if the budget does not stretch to an overnight stay at one of the elegant rooms or suites — which by the way all have balconies or terraces with sweeping city views — there are other ways to enjoy the premises. Home to an award-winning two-starred Michelin restaurant by Chef Ricardo Costa, The Orangerie restaurant, Dick’s Bar & Bistro and a wine cellar run by wine director Elisabete Fernandes, you are in very good gastronomic hands. The Yeatman offers multiple Christmas and New Year lunches and dinners, all open to non-guests and Costa and Fernandes, respectively, oversee and curate the food and wines for the entire hotel and festive events.
Credits: Supplied Image; Author: PR – THE YEATMAN;
The cellar houses no less than the most comprehensive collection of Portuguese wines in the world. With over 30,000 bottles and more than 1,400 references — including rare vintage and wood-aged Ports — the hotel has positioned itself as an institution in Portuguese wine. Partnerships with top producers fuel an ongoing programme of tastings, seminars and wine dinners. Beyond gastronomy, The Yeatman Wine Spa extends the vinous theme into wellness, offering vinotherapy treatments and panoramic relaxation spaces.
Having food, wine, tree and sleeping arrangements ticked off the Christmas checklist, what about the presents? Gift vouchers for spa experiences, tastings, afternoon tea or special wine dinners make particularly popular Christmas presents. Or, when in doubt, simply hit the gift shop for some Portuguese ceramics, wines, soaps, embroidery, jewellery and more.
And while it might sound impersonal to spend Christmas at a hotel, I can assure you it’s not. Because architecture, fine wines and accolades aside, what ultimately defines the experience is the people. And at The Yeatman, they master the art of hospitality to its fullest. From the smiling lady making the morning omelettes with love and care while chatting to all the kids, to Mario, who always remembered my name and what tea I like, to the reception staff and beyond, they transformed luxury into something personal. And in the end, it’s this human touch that makes a hotel Christmas feel warm, relaxed and effortlessly festive. Merry Christmas, everyone and até já!
Dining and Cooking