Credits: Stefano Caffarri, Officina38
We are in one of those places in Italy that lives to the rhythm of wine. Here, the landscapes offer postcard-perfect views in every season, almost like paintings whose colors shift from the white of winter to the green of summer. The boutique hotel Arborina Relais is an oasis of hospitality nestled in the hamlet of Annunziata in La Morra, in the heart of the Langhe. Osteria Arborina is the fine-dining restaurant located within the property: the dining room seats a maximum of twenty guests, an intimate choice that allows for the utmost attention to each diner. Large windows overlook the hotel’s pool and the surrounding valleys; the style is minimalist, and a glimpse into the kitchen sparks guests’ curiosity even before the experience begins.
On the panoramic terrace just above the fine-dining restaurant is The Lab bistro, where dishes inspired by Piedmontese tradition and the classics of Italian cuisine are served. Leading the kitchen brigade is chef Fernando Tommaso Forino, a native of Campania born in 1990, who has built a wealth of international experience working with Anne-Sophie Pic, Michel Bras, and Grant Achatz, as well as spending time in Switzerland as Executive Chef of La Bottega in Geneva, where he retained a Michelin star in 2018. In 2020, he returned to Italy and, before arriving in the Langhe, gained some of his most significant experience in Tuscany at Borgo Santo Pietro and later in Umbria at Castello di Reschio.
Since returning to Italy, he has focused his cuisine and ideas squarely on the product, using the techniques he has learned to bring out the very best in each ingredient after careful selection. The choice of raw materials is limited to the surrounding area, both for the supply of seasonal vegetables and produce, and for the flours used in pasta and baked goods. The vision guiding Chef Forino is that of a contemporary and conscious haute cuisine, also confirmed by his latest Senza Regole menu (5 or 8 courses, €90–115). Each dish weaves together the chef’s personal memories with Piedmontese tradition, creating an original narrative. On the occasion of the New Year’s Eve dinner, a special edition of the menu will be served, accompanied by live jazz music.
But what does Senza Regole mean in Chef Forino’s vision?
“For me, Senza Regole means freedom of thought, but with my feet firmly on the ground—and it’s something I fully identify with. On one side there is strong discipline, essential for organizing and carrying out the daily work in the kitchen; on the other, my creative flair, fueled by constant research, study, and a curiosity that drives me to always push further. It is precisely from the balance between these two worlds that the Senza Regole journey was born: a harmonious pairing that guides the guest through a tasting experience conceived as an open, ever-evolving narrative, with the aim of moving and surprising without forcing anything.”
Could you share some memories or episodes connected to the dishes on the menu?
‘While fine-tuning some of the dishes, I became curious about simply seasoning curly parsley with oil, salt, and balsamic vinegar. The result struck me immediately, so I kept experimenting: I added a homemade anchovy garum to the balsamic, and from there an explosion of flavor was born. From this intuition came one of the restaurant’s signature dishes, Al Verde di Torta di Alici, in which the central element is a curly parsley salad, accompanied by a tartlet with bagnetto verde, white garlic, and marinated anchovies.’
“Another dish that has by now become a fixture on the tasting menu is My Take on Pinzimonio. It features raw fennel marinated for ten days in rice vinegar and shiro dashi, served with a tangy chocolate sauce. An unexpected yet beautifully balanced pairing. The dish is in constant evolution: soon, as part of the Senza Regole journey, the chocolate sauce will give way to a carob sauce, further pushing its identity and depth.”
As mentioned, we are in the land of wine, and the wine list here is a treasure, boasting over 650 labels from local, national, and international producers. Pairings are thoughtfully crafted by the young sommelier Simone Gaiotto, who collaborates with the chef to explore surprising combinations, whether through contrast or harmony. These pairings play the role of distinguished supporting actors—or perhaps something more—alongside the dishes. It is clear that Simone enjoys drawing on his wide-ranging knowledge, sometimes to catch guests off guard, but always with the intention of a joyful surprise: not a forced ‘wow’ effect, but a revelation that becomes familiar and enjoyable on the palate.
How do you surprise guests with this new menu?
“I believe that surprising a guest comes through the natural enjoyment of the wine itself. I take the liberty of seeing it as an essential element to complete a dish, where appropriate, allowing me to ‘play’ with sensations exactly as one expects from a Senza Regole menu. Wine should not overshadow the dish but give it a new dimension, and be immediately appreciated without too much explanation at the table, so as not to break the magic for the guest. From this perspective, I often feature local wines because I strongly believe that Piedmont, and the Langhe in particular, have everything it takes to accompany dishes of various kinds, going beyond the usual ‘Barolo with red meat’ pairing.”
What is a pairing you didn’t believe in at first, but that ended up surprising you?
“Certainly one of the boldest pairings, which I personally appreciate a lot, is Red Vermouth with Chef Forino’s My Take on Pinzimonio. The first time I tasted the dish, I instantly thought of vermouth, but I didn’t truly believe it would work until I tried it myself. The extreme acidity of the fennel is difficult to match with a classic wine, as it tends to amplify the perception of alcohol; with vermouth, however, a perfect balance is achieved. The chocolate element supports the pairing, harmonizing with the Red Vermouth and closing the tasting with a balsamic note that cleanses the palate and prepares it for the next bite. The first time I served it at the table, I wondered if it might be too daring, but the response was immediate and positive—and from that moment on, it has become a cornerstone of Chef Forino’s tasting menus.”
Osteria Arborina thus emerges as an interesting stop and one to watch on the map of contemporary Italian cuisine, with a close-knit team capable of bringing out the fullest expression of flavor, whether on the plate or in the glass.
Contacts
Arborina Relais-Osteria Arborina- The LAB
Frazione Annunziata La Morra, 27- La Morra (CN)
Phone: 0173 500351
www.arborinarelais.it
Dining and Cooking