The chef who originally opened Yolan flew the coop last year, and maybe you’re wondering how it’s fared since then. Well, we’re here to tell you that the kitchen is still making some damn good pasta. The menu looks slightly different here now, but Yolan is a solid spot when you’re looking to splurge a bit on a fancy Italian dinner. The thoughtful and attentive service puts the experience over the top, and almost (almost) makes you forget that you’re in a hotel lobby.
photo credit: Soundtrack My Drink
photo credit: Soundtrack My Drink
Listen, we’re not going to quibble too much about aesthetics here. It’s fine. It’s the lobby of The Joseph hotel, so there are high ceilings, nondescript gray upholstered banquettes and chairs, and the continuous din that comes with being in the hub of an active hotel.
There’s less focus on tasting menus (and tasting menu-portion sizes) now. Instead, you’ll be presented with à la carte options such as a heartily stacked serving dish of crusty focaccia, a gleaming tower brimming with antipasti, and zesty nests of spaghetti alla chitarra. Occasionally, some of the dishes fail to hit the mark—a soupy risotto and a chewy steak among them—but overall, you won’t leave disappointed.
Food RundownFocaccia
Sourdough focaccia is a menu staple and a great way to kick off the meal with a lighter-bodied red. It has just the right amount of tangy chew and comes with a crew of culinary backup dancers for dipping and spreading, like whipped ricotta with fermented garlic honey, and warm ‘nduja.
photo credit: Soundtrack My Drink
Stuzzi Tower
Yolan used to course out its antipasti, but now they heap six of them in one big, generous tower. They tend to be fairly hit or miss—the fried castelvetrano olives are buttery and warm delights, while the duck (a previous standout at Yolan) in the arancini al ragu is chewy and overcooked. Your mileage may vary with this one.
Risotto All’assassina
Tomato is the primary note popping off on this dish. Unfortunately, the sauce is incredibly thin and soupy. The risotto itself is cooked al dente, but starts to get mushy as a result of all that liquid.
Fave E Pesce Spada
Yolan manages to do a decent job with this secondi. It’s a firm filet, almost to the point of being overcooked and dry. Luckily, it doesn’t quite cross that line, thanks to a light, citrus-based sauce anchoring the dish.
Center-Cut Filet Mignon
The whipped potatoes that are served with the filet are a revelation—they’re pure silk. While the filet has a robust, savory flavor, some bites are difficult to chew.
Dining and Cooking