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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Paris
For me, food has always been about sharing and togetherness. When I was growing up, the table was the heart of every moment, whether with family or friends — and I still love cooking for many and gathering people around a generous meal. That convivial spirit is something I deeply associate with Paris: the joy of long dinners, conversations flowing over dishes made to be shared.
I’m also very attached to more traditional places that celebrate true French terroir, where you can taste the authenticity of seasonal products and regional recipes. At the same time, what excites me most about Paris is the mix: a city where you can move from a classic bistro to a contemporary table in the same evening. That balance between heritage and creativity is what makes the Parisian food and drink scene so vibrant.
Chez Georges1 Rue du Mail, 75002 Paris
Lellouche brings international visitors to Paris to Chez Georges . . . © Shirley Garrier
. . . for ‘an authentic, non-cliché experience of traditional French-restaurant culture’ © Shirley Garrier
A true Parisian institution, wedged in a street corner not far from the Louvre. An old-school brasserie, where only a few still exist, with a time worn facade, net curtains, stern waiters and no website. The decor is identical to how it’s always been, the team are stalwarts and the French cuisine is simple, generous and unfailingly tasty, using fresh and seasonal produce. I always order the house signature dish: pavé du Mail with homemade fries. It’s the perfect spot for a business lunch, especially with international guests — an authentic, non-cliché experience of traditional French-restaurant culture. Directions
Mamiche 45 Rue Condorcet, 75009 Paris and two other locations
Mamiche focuses on ethically sourced ingredients and bakes in low quantities to minimise food waste.
Cardamom buns at Mamiche
A neighbourhood bakery founded by two women, one leaning sweet and the other savoury, creating sourdough miches (loaves) and buttery cream-filled pastries. Everything in Mamiche is homemade, using ethically sourced ingredients, and the team bakes deliberately low quantities to reduce food waste. I particularly like the ultra-indulgent pastries — a special mention goes to the chocolate-hazelnut babka. More often than not, there is a small queue here, but there’s a reason this warm, welcoming spot has become a Parisian institution. There is another branch as well as a traiteur near the Canal Saint-Martin. Website; Directions
Dalia93 Rue Montmartre, 75002 Paris
‘Like being bathed in Mediterranean sunlight’: Dalia © Patrick A Sater
Floor-to-ceiling windows, wicker chairs and a pale coral and terracotta palette make dining in Dalia feel like being bathed in Mediterranean sunlight. The summery surroundings are mirrored by the warm generosity of the team, making it perfect for a dinner with friends or a date night. It’s lively too, with an open kitchen behind which chefs prepare seasonal, olive-oil-infused dishes. The food is fresh, flavourful and designed to be shared, meze-style. In the evening, the friendly chatter turns festive, and you can sample some of their delicious original cocktails. Don’t miss the hummus and lamb — it’s a must. Website; Directions
Ryukishin59 Rue de Richelieu, 75002 Paris
‘A tiny, no-frills spot serving some of the best ramen in town’: Ryukishin
Ramen and dumplings at Ryukishin
This is my hidden gem near the office. It’s a tiny, no-frills spot serving some of the best ramen in Paris. I always go for a vegetarian option (the best in town — it’s hard to find a good veggie ramen, but this one has a thick, flavourful broth). The warm bowls of perfectly cooked noodles are a comfort food for me. With clean lines, dark-wood panelling and large windows, Ryukishin brings good simple food in a clean, minimalist environment. A cosy family favourite. Website; Directions
Méert16 Rue ElzÉvir and 29 Rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris
Lille-based confectioner Méert has two locations in the Marais
Méert’s Flemish waffles
My sweet refuge in the Marais is Méert, the legendary Lille institution founded in 1761 which is my go-to address whenever I fancy some indulgence. Stepping inside feels like going back in time, with hanging signs, huge glass jars of sweets and glowing old-school cabinets brimming with beribboned treats. Its Flemish waffles — thin, crisp and oblong-shaped — are based on a recipe from 1849, and were allegedly sampled by King Leopold I and Charles de Gaulle. I recommend the Madagascan vanilla cream-filled gaufre — it’s simply out of this world. Méert is a must-visit whenever I need a spark of inspiration, a thoughtful gift or just a comforting moment for myself. Website; Directions
Compiled with Leah Renz
Johanna Lellouche is the deputy managing director of the Kitsuné Group
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