In just over a year, Madame Hien restaurant on Hang Be Street (Hanoi) had the honor of hosting two globally renowned VIP guests: Apple CEO Tim Cook and French President Emmanuel Macron. Therefore, when I received information about the special dinner “Didier Et Sakal Au Vietnam” organized by the La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Bailliage National du Vietnam (La Chaine) at Madame Hien, I didn’t hesitate to reserve a spot.
The price to attend wasn’t cheap – even for fine dining standards. But only after experiencing it firsthand did I understand that what I received was completely worth it. The value of the meal wasn’t just in the delicious food on the table, but also in the conversations, new relationships, and the culinary culture of La Chaine.
French culinary dialogue
“Didier Et Sakal Au Vietnam” is a culinary showcase by two renowned French chefs in Vietnam. Didier Corlou, known to Vietnamese people by the nickname “the Frenchman who makes fish sauce,” has over 10 years of experience as a chef at world-famous 5-star hotels and has served more than 60 heads of state.
Witnessing the path leading to the second floor of Madame Hien’s restaurant is also a glimpse into history, not only in the ancient architecture of the old villa, but also in the photographs hanging on the walls. Decorating the corridor are photos of international politicians who visited Vietnam, spanning from the 1990s to the most recent, the French President Macron and his wife.
About 15 years younger than Corlou is Sakal Phoeung, born and raised in Cambodia and adopted by a French couple after his parents passed away. Having studied culinary arts in France, Phoeung first set foot in Vietnam in 2000 and quickly felt a special connection to the country. Although he spent time working in Beijing and Phnom Penh, he ultimately chose to return to Vietnam in 2013 and opened several restaurants, and also has a Vietnamese girlfriend.
The age difference is not an obstacle to the friendship between Didier Corlou and Sakal Phoeung. They may have been born and raised in different environments, but they both share a love for French cuisine and a fondness for Vietnam to the point of making it their permanent home.
From left to right: Chef Didier Corlou, Mr. Ravi Chunilal – President of the La Chaine Vietnam Association, Chef Sakal Phoeung
The way they designed the “Didier Et Sakal Au Vietnam” menu also shows their ingenious collaboration, dividing each person into a specific area: Appetizers (Phoeung), Appetizers (Corlou), Appetizers (one course each), Main Course (Corlou), and Dessert (Phoeung). Each person possesses their own style and strengths, thus the menu is constructed as a gentle dialogue between two generations of French chefs.
Here, cuisine is not just about delicious food, but a cultural experience with refined and dignified rituals of enjoyment.
In that dialogue, Didier exuded the confidence of someone who had experienced many events, big and small, understood the tastes of diners, and knew how to make guests happy both upon arrival and departure. However, because of this, those expecting novelty and an explosion of flavors might not find what they were looking for.
Corlou’s first dish was the Amuse Bouche (appetizer), featuring “Crispy sea bass cheeks, herring roe, and pepper sorbet.” The biggest surprise was the sorbet. This cool, mildly spicy, and refreshing addition to the palate provided an interesting contrast to the heat of the fried sea bass cheeks, while also revitalizing the taste buds for the subsequent courses.
The other two dishes prepared by the seasoned chef were both renowned hallmarks of French cuisine: foie gras and duck breast. But while delicious, they didn’t offer the novelty or uniqueness that had been expected.
Sakal Phoeung, on the other hand, appeared more youthful and surprised everyone with his cooking. His appetizer, “Hot & Cold Salmon Fillet with Dashi White Butter Sauce,” was truly the best salmon dish the writer had ever tasted. Phoeung said he deliberated for a long time and only decided to use Dashi sauce two days before the event.
Crispy sea bass cheeks paired with pepper sorbet – an interesting contrast between hot and cold, mildly spicy and refreshing, to revitalize your taste buds. 
A unique dessert shaped like a cigar.
The fish is perfectly cooked: the outside is just done, the inside is tender, juicy, and subtly smoked, with a delicate aroma reminiscent of the late afternoon. Combined with the Asian-inspired Dashi sauce, the dish is both refined French and deeply rooted in Eastern traditions.
Beyond the impressive appetizers, Chef Phoeung also made a mark with his dessert: a coffee ice cream wrapped in chocolate and aged Sampan rum, garnished in the shape of cigars. The crispy chocolate shell crumbled, revealing a soft, creamy filling oozing with a rich, smooth sauce that blended with the fragrant, warm aroma of the rum, creating a captivating finish: both satisfying and leaving you wanting more.
Chaîne des Rotisseurs Culture
When I first received the event schedule, I wondered why a small seven-course dinner was scheduled from 6:30 PM to 10:30 PM. Only after experiencing it firsthand did I understand the rituals that made up such a meticulously prepared evening. Guests arrived early, and instead of sitting down at the tables, they stood, chatting, sipping wine, and striking up conversations with friends or making new acquaintances. Most of the guests were members of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs association and had received invitations to the event in advance.
The La Chaine des Rôtisseurs has 21,000 members with member associations located in 75 countries. Ravi Chunilal, President of the La Chaine Vietnam Association, stated: “The association’s defining characteristic is connecting food lovers and professionals worldwide: from hotel and restaurant owners, executive chefs to sommeliers… all sharing a common appreciation for fine cuisine.”
Around Chunilal’s neck is a band with badges representing the international culinary events he has attended. The way he remembers each badge and which event it represents reveals his passion and special love for food and connecting with like-minded people. It takes true passion to travel from country to country, even across continents, to experience culinary events organized by member associations.
Even after the dessert was served, the party wasn’t over. Everyone lingered to hear Chunilal directly share his feelings and thoughts about each dish with the two chefs. When his favorite dish came up, cheers and applause erupted from the table as if celebrating an entertainment star.
Not only were the two chefs and the person who meticulously selected the wines for each dish honored with certificates of participation from Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, but every member who contributed to the success of the event was recognized. From the sous chefs and waitstaff to the restaurant manager, everyone was called up to receive a certificate of appreciation for their role in making the event a success.
And that’s why I found this dinner to be worth more than what I paid for, because there, diners not only get to enjoy good food, fine wine, or build relationships… They also get to experience very special cultural aspects of dining and rituals, where even those who serve silently or briefly are recognized and rewarded accordingly.
The event opened up a new space for me, where food is not just for enjoyment, but for appreciation: appreciation of craftsmanship, appreciation of the people behind the kitchen, and appreciation of the unsung heroes who contribute to the value of a meal.
The “Didier Et Sakal Au Vietnam” banquet is a place where diners not only enjoy the food but also learn to appreciate the unsung heroes who create the value of an exquisite meal.
Dining and Cooking